I <3 NY.
Or so it says, with a proper heart, on millions of t-shirts I've never seen anyone wear. Although on my trip there from Thursday, August 11 through Sunday the 14th, I did see a group of tourists congruently clad in blue shirts adorned with "We <3 NY."
While I am a longtime Chicago area resident and a proud champion of all the Windy City has to offer in many different arenas, there is nowhere in the world that makes me feel like I do when I'm in New York City.
Mind you, I wouldn't want to live there, at least not given the likely reality of struggling to find a job that would allow me to share a walk-up apartment in the outer reaches of an outer borough.
But when I go for 4 days every year or two, I enjoy the delusion of staying in Midtown (almost always near Times Square) and going to several Broadway shows, a few museums, concerts and/or ballgames and dining (usually lunching) at one highfallutin' restaurant.
Although my financial outlay for this isn't cheap--despite relative non-opulence in my choice of lodging--four packed days in the Big Apple costs considerably less than what most Manhattan apartment dwellers pay in monthly rent.
I've been to New York 14 times now, all for pleasure, with 13 of those trips coming in the last 15 years. So although I always find something new to do, I long ago hit most of the major tourist highlights. But whereas several of my excursions to NYC have centered around Bruce Springsteen shows--often at Giants Stadium--or other concerts, this time I went primarily just because I hadn't been to New York for a couple of years. And I acutely missed it.
Certainly, going to the new Yankee Stadium was a big pull, as it's one of just 3 current major league parks at which I'd yet to see a game, but in my head at least, thematically this trip was a celebration of New York and Broadway. Although I didn't go by Ground Zero except by boat--I don't think there's anything the public can see of the memorial until the 11th--it also wasn't lost on me that the 10th anniversary of 9/11 is just weeks away.
Anyway, I know more time has lapsed than I spent there, but here's what I did and saw over a great four days in New York City.
Thursday, August 11
Although there really weren't any major fiascos on the whole trip, things got off to a bit of a harried start, at least mentally. I got to O'Hare 80 minutes before my outbound flight having already checked-in online, printed a boarding pass and with only a carry-on bag. But I found that JetBlue--which I was flying for the first time--doesn't utilize the main security checkpoint in Terminal 3 but rather shares a 2-lane checkpoint with other smaller airlines. At 6:00am the line was snaked through and beyond all the guide stantions so it took nearly an hour to get through security--after stopping to be X-Rayed to someone's undoubted delight. By the time I got to the gate the plane was already well-boarded, but I never worried much as I knew there must be passengers who'd arrived later than me, still stuck in the queue.
The flight itself was fine and Jet Blue features nice video screens on the back of each seat, though I mostly just slept.
I arrived at JFK and took an Air Train to the subway, then the A train into Manhattan; the $7.25 expense sure beats a $50 cab ride, even if it's a bit slower. Upon arrival the Hotel Pennsylvania about 12:30pm, I waited in a long line only to be told that check-in wasn't until 3pm. Usually I've found hotels let you check in early, but the Hotel Penn wouldn't and didn't even waive the $4.00 fee to hold my bag.
These buildings on 28th St. once formed the heart of Tin Pan Alley, but that legacy isn't noted in any fashion |
Continuing down Broadway, I saw one of Chicago's greatest contributions to New York: the beautiful Flatiron Building designed by Daniel Burnham.
Then I went to Eisenberg's Sandwich Shop, which has existed since 1929. It's at 174 5th Avenue, just west of the Flatiron. I try to hit a different deli on each NY visit and while Eisenberg's wasn't the best, it was a coolly quaint blast from the past. Finding the counter help to be entirely pleasant rather than reflexively gruff, I got a Corned Beef and Pastrami Reuben along with a Potato Knish.
The cold cuts seemed a bit fatty for my tastes, but the sandwich was quite delish nonetheless.
Although I was adequately full, I made another guidebook-inspired visit to City Bakery, at 3 W. 18th. I got a "pretzel croissant," which was quite tasty, and a great chocolate chip cookie that I didn't eat until later.
I then strolled throughout Greenwich Village, aided by Rock Junket New York City, a book by a guy who gives tours I didn't care quite enough to take.
I stopped in front of Electric Ladyland studios, built by and for Jimi Hendrix shortly before his death in 1970--I asked a couple employees who came outside if I could get an inside glimpse, but was told no, as there were recording sessions taking place in the still active studio.
Other Village landmarks I saw included Washington Square Park, Cafe Wha?--an early Dylan haunt--The Bitter End and Kenny's Castaways.
I took a walk down Bleeker Street to the Bowery, which at 2nd Street has a sign declaring it "Joey Ramone Place." The legendary punk club CBGB's had been at 315 Bowery and though it ceased operations in 2006--I went there once, but never saw a show--the John Varvatos store in its place has retained the clubs old walls, as is, except with new photos hanging.
Next door, in what was the CBGB Annex and store, where once spoke with owner Hilly Kristal, there is a high-end rock photo gallery called Morrison Hotel. One of its founders is a photographer name Henry Diltz, who had shot the cover of the Doors' album of the same name.
Although I was pretty worn out by then, I shlepped up to 96-98 St. Mark's Place, which only a few loons like me would know--or care--are the two buildings which were once famously depicted on Led Zeppelin's album cover for Physical Graffiti (they cropped out a floor for the 1975 cover).
Getting back to my hotel, I had to wait in about an hour-long check-in line, but still pretty full from my Reuben, knish, pretzel croissant and chocolate chip cookie, I didn't feel much need to seek out dinner before heading to the theater.
Theater Review
Spider-Man: Turn Off The Dark
Foxwoods Theater, New York
Open Run
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Much plagued and maligned throughout its long gestation
period and longer-than-ever preview run, and supposedly considerably altered
since its initial incarnation, Spider-Man: Turn Off the Dark is a show that
succeeds in spite of itself.
With music and lyrics by Bono and the Edge, it isn’t as enjoyable as a U2 concert—nor a classic musical—but there are more readily likable songs than were on either of the last two U2 albums. Originally co-conceived and directed by Julie Taymor, who was eventually pushed aside, it’s nowhere near as good a stage creation as her Lion King. With its story now largely similar to the first Spiderman movie, it’s not quite as gratifying as watching that film or Spiderman 2.
With music and lyrics by Bono and the Edge, it isn’t as enjoyable as a U2 concert—nor a classic musical—but there are more readily likable songs than were on either of the last two U2 albums. Originally co-conceived and directed by Julie Taymor, who was eventually pushed aside, it’s nowhere near as good a stage creation as her Lion King. With its story now largely similar to the first Spiderman movie, it’s not quite as gratifying as watching that film or Spiderman 2.
At times it’s hokey, at times its narrative is a bit
stilted and not all its songs can be termed sensational. Yet it has enough
going for it that I couldn’t help but like it.
Although rehearsal and preview accidents supposedly curtailed some of Spidey’s flying, there’s still plenty of him swinging around the Foxwoods Theater. Although no tunes hit the highs of "Sunday Bloody Sunday," "Pride (In the Name of Love)" or "Where the Streets Have No Name," songs like "Bouncing Off The Walls," "Rise Above" and "Boy Falls From The Sky" rock pretty resoundingly. And for U2 devotees, it’s fun to hear recorded snippets of or references to a number a the band’s songs. Reeve Carney, in the title role, sings and acts suitably well and Patrick Page makes for an enjoyable Green Goblin, especially in leading the song “A Freak Like Me Needs Company." Though I got an understudy Mary Jane, Kristen Martin was more than pretty and well-sung enough for me not to care.
Although rehearsal and preview accidents supposedly curtailed some of Spidey’s flying, there’s still plenty of him swinging around the Foxwoods Theater. Although no tunes hit the highs of "Sunday Bloody Sunday," "Pride (In the Name of Love)" or "Where the Streets Have No Name," songs like "Bouncing Off The Walls," "Rise Above" and "Boy Falls From The Sky" rock pretty resoundingly. And for U2 devotees, it’s fun to hear recorded snippets of or references to a number a the band’s songs. Reeve Carney, in the title role, sings and acts suitably well and Patrick Page makes for an enjoyable Green Goblin, especially in leading the song “A Freak Like Me Needs Company." Though I got an understudy Mary Jane, Kristen Martin was more than pretty and well-sung enough for me not to care.
Having woken up that morning at 4:30am in Chicago, flown,
walked a great deal around Manhattan and seen an evening performance, I was
pretty pooped, so I didn’t make it to the 11pm show at Birdland, one of
my favorite NYC jazz clubs. I also like the Village Vanguard, Blue Note and Iridium,
but didn’t get to any of them on this trip.
Friday, August 12
Although checking-in was a pain in the tuchas, the Hotel
Pennsylvania proved to be perfectly fine in terms of the room itself, noise
level, location, etc. I’ve stayed there before as it offers great
convenience to getting to shows at Madison Square Garden or taking a train out
of Penn Station across the street. More recently, I’ve typically stayed
closer to Times Square, but the Hotel Penn is only 9 short blocks or 1 subway
stop away.
I didn’t have anywhere to be on Friday until an
11:45am lunch reservation so it was nice to sleep in. Leaving my room at about
10am, I was still somewhat legworn, but it was too beautiful a day to jump on the subway.
So first I walked up 8th Avenue to the new New York Times building, where there is a Dean & Deluca coffee shop and bakery that sells among other pastries, donuts from the Doughnut Plant. The Doughnut Plant itself is on the Lower East Side—I discovered it on my last NY visit in 2009—and has the best doughnuts I’ve ever tasted. I had thought about trying to get to the actual location on Thursday, but ate too much elsewhere and ran out of time. But having noted where else in NYC their donuts are carried, Dean & Deluca fit the bill—even if their Doughnut Plant selection seemed kind of sparse—and I got a Blackout (mega chocolate) cake donut and a Peanut Butter & Jelly square donut. Yum. Yum. And some milk, since even in New York, I don’t drink coffee.
So first I walked up 8th Avenue to the new New York Times building, where there is a Dean & Deluca coffee shop and bakery that sells among other pastries, donuts from the Doughnut Plant. The Doughnut Plant itself is on the Lower East Side—I discovered it on my last NY visit in 2009—and has the best doughnuts I’ve ever tasted. I had thought about trying to get to the actual location on Thursday, but ate too much elsewhere and ran out of time. But having noted where else in NYC their donuts are carried, Dean & Deluca fit the bill—even if their Doughnut Plant selection seemed kind of sparse—and I got a Blackout (mega chocolate) cake donut and a Peanut Butter & Jelly square donut. Yum. Yum. And some milk, since even in New York, I don’t drink coffee.
I then had a real nice walk toward my lunch destination near 58th & 3rd, passing the Central Library, Grand
Central Station and the Chrysler building (probably still the world’s most
beautiful skyscraper), which I even went into for some lobby photos. I also
made a point of walking past 53rd & 3rd, the title
and subject of a Ramones song though I imagine the reputation Dee Dee once
wrote about (and supposedly partook in) has long since dissolved.
Now before I get to lunch, let me explain that one of the
things I try to do on each trip to New York is dine at one really high-end
restaurant. Typically this means lunch, where you can often find relative
bargains at places rated among the world’s best or otherwise renowned.
Past NYC visits brought me to Tavern on the Green, Nobu, Le Bernardin, The Four
Seasons, Auereole and a few steakhouses. This time, I had initially thought
about Jean-Georges, but I couldn’t even get a reservation for the more
economical Terrace at Jean-Georges. So I chose Le Cirque.
Now in its third Manhattan location, Le Cirque has long been
one of New York’s most acclaimed restaurants. It’s not on
Restaurant magazine’s list of the World’s Top 50 Restaurants—perhaps
it was in years past—but is among Gayot’s list of the Top 40 Restaurants in the U.S. For a kid from Skokie, that’s elite enough
for me, and fellow Howard Stern fans might be interested to note that the
current location is where Howard & Beth got married.
A jacket is required for men in the dining room, even for lunch, but they graciously offered to let me borrow one so I didn’t have to pack one nor wear a jacket around Manhattan—and to the Yankees game that night—in 88 degree heat. Yet for all the elegance, and what turned out to be great food, they offered a real bargain. Honoring “Restaurant Week” prices from July 11 through September 2, a three-course (appetizer, entrée and dessert) lunch at Le Cirquewas only $24.07. Of course, a few choices required $10 supplements and I was convinced that two of these—the Marinated Big Eye Tuna appetizer and Flounder “Le Cirque” entrée—were among their famed specialties and worth the extra cost. Obviously, I can’t know comparatively, but I had no complaints. Both were delicious, especially the tuna, which came raw accompanied by guacamole. It was awesome. The flounder was also great though it didn’t seem quite as gourmet in preparation as other exquisite meals. And for dessert, my first taste of Crème Brulee was fantastic.
A jacket is required for men in the dining room, even for lunch, but they graciously offered to let me borrow one so I didn’t have to pack one nor wear a jacket around Manhattan—and to the Yankees game that night—in 88 degree heat. Yet for all the elegance, and what turned out to be great food, they offered a real bargain. Honoring “Restaurant Week” prices from July 11 through September 2, a three-course (appetizer, entrée and dessert) lunch at Le Cirquewas only $24.07. Of course, a few choices required $10 supplements and I was convinced that two of these—the Marinated Big Eye Tuna appetizer and Flounder “Le Cirque” entrée—were among their famed specialties and worth the extra cost. Obviously, I can’t know comparatively, but I had no complaints. Both were delicious, especially the tuna, which came raw accompanied by guacamole. It was awesome. The flounder was also great though it didn’t seem quite as gourmet in preparation as other exquisite meals. And for dessert, my first taste of Crème Brulee was fantastic.
I was done with lunch around 1pm, and although I was thinking
I might hit two art museums that afternoon, on such a beautiful day I couldn’t
skip a walk through Central Park, especially as the area around the Bethesda
Fountain is probably my favorite place in New York, if not the world. And in
the beautiful terrace passage next to it, I not only took a few more “archway
photos,” I got to hear a three-piece combo (guitar/singer, violin, cello)
perform a pleasant set of classical and pop songs.
As I’ve mentioned, this is my 13th trip to New York in the past 15 years, and on every one I’ve gone to at least one art museum if not more. So I’ve been, perhaps multiple times, to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Museum of Modern Art, Guggenheim, Whitney, Frick, Brooklyn Museum of Art, American Craft Museum and the Jewish Museum, at which I’d seen a great Modigliani exhibit.
I wouldn’t mind going to any of these again, but with admission fees of $25 I’m not going to run into the Met or MOMA with limited time. The two museums I was eyeballing—along with the AIA Center in the Village, which I didn’t make it to on Thursday, and the International Center of Photography, which I got to on Sunday—were The Jewish Museum (like before, the one on 5th Ave. & 92nd St.), which was having an exhibition centered around the Cone sisters, early 20th century collectors and patrons of Matisse, Picasso, etc., whose collection was donated to the Baltimore Museum of Art, and a new museum, the Neue Galerie, a collection of German and Austrian art housed in an old 5th Avenue mansion.
I stopped by the Neue Galerie first, but found that the exhibition halls were closed until August 19th, so after admiring a copy of their famous Klimt in the gift shop, I walked up to the Jewish Museum. The exhibit on the Cone sisters, both for what I learned about the women themselves--one of the sisters, Claribel, was a practicing physician at a time when very few women were doctors--and the art they collected, typically ahead of their time. Claribel and Etta were on a first name basis with Picasso and Matisse paid Etta a personal visit in Baltimore after Claribel's death in 1929.
Matisse's drawings of Claribel and Etta Cone bookend two other highlights from the collection and exhibit, one by Matisse, the other by Picasso (below). There was also an impressive Van Gogh.
As I’ve mentioned, this is my 13th trip to New York in the past 15 years, and on every one I’ve gone to at least one art museum if not more. So I’ve been, perhaps multiple times, to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Museum of Modern Art, Guggenheim, Whitney, Frick, Brooklyn Museum of Art, American Craft Museum and the Jewish Museum, at which I’d seen a great Modigliani exhibit.
I wouldn’t mind going to any of these again, but with admission fees of $25 I’m not going to run into the Met or MOMA with limited time. The two museums I was eyeballing—along with the AIA Center in the Village, which I didn’t make it to on Thursday, and the International Center of Photography, which I got to on Sunday—were The Jewish Museum (like before, the one on 5th Ave. & 92nd St.), which was having an exhibition centered around the Cone sisters, early 20th century collectors and patrons of Matisse, Picasso, etc., whose collection was donated to the Baltimore Museum of Art, and a new museum, the Neue Galerie, a collection of German and Austrian art housed in an old 5th Avenue mansion.
I stopped by the Neue Galerie first, but found that the exhibition halls were closed until August 19th, so after admiring a copy of their famous Klimt in the gift shop, I walked up to the Jewish Museum. The exhibit on the Cone sisters, both for what I learned about the women themselves--one of the sisters, Claribel, was a practicing physician at a time when very few women were doctors--and the art they collected, typically ahead of their time. Claribel and Etta were on a first name basis with Picasso and Matisse paid Etta a personal visit in Baltimore after Claribel's death in 1929.
Matisse's drawings of Claribel and Etta Cone bookend two other highlights from the collection and exhibit, one by Matisse, the other by Picasso (below). There was also an impressive Van Gogh.
Although I didn't have much time to spend with it, I also found this exhibit by Maya Zack to be quite compelling.
Theoretically, getting to Yankee Stadium—the new one
is right next to where the old one stood—should've been a breeze as the
4 subway train up Lexington Ave. takes you right to the ballpark. And from the Jewish
Museum at 92nd and 5th, I was just blocks from the
closest station at 86th and Lexington. But first I discovered that
the 4 doesn’t stop at 86th street so I had to take the 6 to
125th and switch. No big deal, except the 4 didn’t seem to be
coming all that frequently, the first one that did was too packed to get on and
so was the second one, but I got on anyway, spending a lovely 15 minutes
smooshed together with sweaty New Yorkers with at least one arm up to hold onto a
pole.
I enjoy subways and have ridden them around the world, but this ride was
one of the worst. Fortunately, it wasn’t that long and I arrived at the Yankee Stadium stop feeling like a sardine, but none too worse for wear.
Having made it an aim to attend every major league ballpark
that exists, I typically spend a good while exploring the stadium, first taking
a loop around the outside and then strolling through the interior—even to
the point of missing a good portion of game action. Although I did go mostly
around the park and took a number of photos, there wasn’t much
differentiation in terms of exterior angles. And inside the park, with a great
pitching matchup between the Yankees’ C.C. Sabathia and Tampa Bay Rays’
David Price, I actually spent a full 7 innings in my seat, and even watched most
of the final 2. There’s a Hard Rock Café inside the stadium, but I only
went in it after the game for a few photos. The stadium’s famed Monument
Park—which was relocated from the old stadium—beyond the center
field wall closes 45 minutes before gametime, so I didn’t get there
(although I’ve seen it before) and whatever may exist in the Yankees
Museum within the stadium will have to remain a mystery as I also didn’t
make it there.
The new park was certainly impressive and enjoyable, but
didn’t, for me, a non-Yankee fan, hold the historic luster of the old
Yankee Stadium. Although I wasn’t seeking much food after my Le Cirque lunch,
I also didn’t notice much in the way of anything unusual. (At the Mets’
new stadium, Citi Field, they have Lobster Rolls.) There is a $15 steak
sandwich, but I didn’t seek it out, settling for a run-of-the-mill hot
dog. It was a bit unique to see C.C., one of the game’s best pitchers,
give up 5 solo homers, and Price pitched a great game. A-Rod was out of the
lineup so I couldn’t boo him, even internally. At least not with any
relevance.
I understand why the Yankees had to build this new park, but
tickets are crazily expensive (though I got mine on StubHub for just $19) and
it just doesn’t feel as special as “The House That Ruth Built.”
It’s a nice baseball stadium, but at this point, that’s all it is.
I again toyed with the idea of going to Birdland, but didn’t,
instead heading back to the Hotel Penn and turning in for the night.
Saturday, August 13
On Saturday, I awoke to another absolutely gorgeous day in
New York City. Which was a good thing, as prior to a doubleheader of Broadway shows,
I was intending to take a 3-hr. Circle Line cruise around Manhattan
(literally).
I took my one cab ride of the trip—it seemed it should be
part of the whole NY experience—to the Pier 83 at 42nd Street in
plenty of time to get a ticket for the 10am departure, although the boat wound
up being completely full. I’ve taken such cruises a couple times
previously and they’re a really nice and relaxing way to see and photograph
many of the city’s highlights.
The tour guide was an old guide who
delivered a really informative narration as we went past the Statue of Liberty,
numerous bridges and famed buildings. I vividly remembered taking a Circle Line
tour in July 2001 and 10 years later it still seems strange not to see the Twin
Towers. They are making solid progress on one building at Ground Zero, as you
can see at left.
After the cruise, I had to get to a 2pm show at the Marquis
Theater at 46th and Broadway, but near the dock noticed an outpost
of H&H Bagels, the best bagel purveyor in NY, as far as I’ve tasted
(although honestly no better than New York Bagel &amp;amp; Bialy in Skokie, IL). It
was fun to get and eat an “Everything” bagel as I strolled to my
show.
Theater Review
Follies
Marquis Theatre, New York
(officially in previews until Sept. 12)
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I am a huge fan of composer/lyricist Stephen Sondheim and Follies
is one of his most acclaimed musicals. It is also one of his with which I am
less familiar, having seen is just once in a community theater production.
So a
new Broadway production that transferred from Washington DC’s Kennedy
Center caught my eye, especially with a cast of theatrical luminaries including
Bernadette Peters, Elaine Paige, Jan Maxwell, Danny Burstein, Ron Raines, Mary Beth Peil (Jackie from TV's The Good Wife) and others.
Originally on Broadway in 1971, the show centers
around a reunion of old performers from a Ziegfield Follies-type revue. There is
a bit of a narrative involving romantic entanglements and regrets, but much of
Follies includes “Folliesesque” numbers, with each of the old stars
taking a turn singing one of their old standards. These include some of
Sondheim’s best songs, like "I’m Still Here," "Losing My Mind" and "Broadway Baby."
All the stars were as good as I could have hoped and each tune was exquisite. But there is something not perfectly engaging about the storyline and the "Loveland" series of songs in Act 2. I'm looking forward to seeing Follies again, in a more intimate setting, when it's done in October at Chicago Shakespeare Theater (where I've never seen Shakespeare but have thoroughly enjoyed four Sondheim shows). But for now, it seemed like a musical whose parts were a bit better than it's sum.
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After Follies, I wandered up and down 8th St. looking for somewhere to eat. I almost went to Playwright Tavern but didn't see much on the menu that appealed to me, so wound up at Charley O's at 49th & 8th. Though it has a chain-type feel, there are only 2 locations, both in NYC, where the restaurant has existed for over 50 years. The food was decent--I got some Prime Rib that was kind of thin, but to be expected for the price--but I found the wait staff to be particularly nice. I'm not sure how to express what this means, but they seemed like "real New Yorkers" and made the meal pleasurable.
Then it was on to the hottest show in town, perhaps in many a year...
Theater Review
The Book of Mormon
Eugene O'Neill Theatre, New York
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With nine Tony Awards won in June—out of 14
nominations—The Book of Mormon is one of the most acclaimed musicals of
recent vintage. And as a huge commercial success, it is the only show of 43 I’ve
seen on Broadway that has required me to purchase an aftermarket,
above-face-value ticket (in this case, from StubHub).
It is an exceptionally good show, one that is tremendously
funny—I imagine even Mormons should find it so—and much more
thought-provoking than mean-spirited. It essentially asks the
spiritually-inclined to think about what they believe and why, but is not in any way a
wholesale condemnation of religion, Mormon or otherwise.
While in shorthand reference, this is a musical by the creators of South Park—Matt Stone and Trey Parker—it’s certainly worth noting that Robert Lopez is co-credited (along with those two) for writing the music, lyrics and book. Lopez, along with Jeff Marx, was the creative mastermind behind Avenue Q, and the humor here—both lyrically and in dialogue—is somewhat reminiscent of that Tony winner.
While in shorthand reference, this is a musical by the creators of South Park—Matt Stone and Trey Parker—it’s certainly worth noting that Robert Lopez is co-credited (along with those two) for writing the music, lyrics and book. Lopez, along with Jeff Marx, was the creative mastermind behind Avenue Q, and the humor here—both lyrically and in dialogue—is somewhat reminiscent of that Tony winner.
While I highly recommend it to anyone who can get a ticket
at any affordable price, I can’t at this point call The Book of Mormon
the best musical I’ve ever seen, or anything quite that hyperbolic. It holds up
quite well amongst the best Broadway musicals of the past decade—The Producers,
Avenue Q, Hairspray, Wicked, Spring Awakening, Billy Elliot, In the Heights,
Jersey Boys—rather than clearly elevates above any or all of them. But
that’s pretty select company and whether it quite lives up to all the
hype, TBOM is, at worst, sensational.
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A few years back, I was told of a place called Marie’s
Crisis (sorry, no website). I was never completely clear on what it was, and having been there am still not certain. It seems to be a
combination of gay bar, piano bar and cabaret, frequented by those who love or
even work in theater. It is at 59 Grove St. in the West Village, and just steps from a subway stop at Christopher St./Sheridan Sq.
After
getting out to the subway, I was delighted to instantly see a pushcart selling
waffles. I realize waffles might sound strange as a finger food, but I became
enchanted by this on a visit to Belgium. The waffle I got was quite tasty,
though a bit softer than I expected, making it not all that easy to eat as I
walked. But it was just a short jaunt to Marie’s Crisis, so named because, well I'm not sure who Marie was, but you can read this about the Crisis part.
And in terms of what goes on at Marie's Crisis, well, take a look below. It wasn't quite what I was expecting and I only needed to be there for about an hour, but I can't deny it was quite loverly (there were two pianists, who wound up performing most of the My Fair Lady score).
Sunday morning it rained in Manhattan. This may not seem all
that newsworthy, but over at least the past dozen years, when I’ve
traveled substantially throughout the U.S. and abroad, I think I’ve had
just 1-2 days of vacation rain, and none which significantly impacted my plans.
And other than prompting me to take the Subway to Times Square rather than to walk,
Sunday’s rain did little to dampen my enjoyment as my intended agenda
called for a visit to the International Center of Photography followed by a
musical matinee at a theater basically across the street from the museum.
In fact, the rain proved to be a bit fortuitous, for rather
than pick up a pastry for breakfast while walking up Broadway, having taken the
subway and not opting to wander around too much, I stumbled into the Brooklyn
Diner on 43rd east of 7th Ave. I was originally planning
to just get a muffin, but the wait staff at the counter was really nice and I
decided to get eggs and bacon, which were darn good and came with some of the
best noodle kugel I’ve ever had and two pieces of challah toast. I also ordered
a piece of their self-acclaimed “best ruggelah in the city” and was
given one on the house. So good food and a great experience where I really had
no expectations of either.
Copyright Elliott Erwitt/Magnum Photos |
Also tremendously worthwhile were two smaller exhibits, one
of photos taken of Hiroshima after the atomic bomb—to document the damage
for the U.S. government—and the other on a pioneering photojournalist
named Ruth Gruber. Gruber, the youngest woman ever—at least at the time—to
earn a Ph.D., was originally sent—by the U.S. government—to the
Soviet Arctic and subsequently to document post-War conditions for Holocaust
refugees, including those on the Exodus, a boat that British navy blockaded
from entering Palestine. Winding up on another boat, Runnymeade Park, the
refugees painted a swastika on the Union Jack, which Gruber caught on film. Still
living at 99, the remarkable Gruber is the subject of a documentary called
fadlf adre, which I hope to see sometime soon.
When I left the museum, it was still raining, but lightly,
and I encountered a Dominican parade up 6th Avenue. Fortunately, I only
had to cross 43rd to get to the theater, the newly renamed Stephen
Sondheim Theatre. Formerly Henry Miller’s Theatre, it has been completely
gutted and refurbished, with the entire forum underground.
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Originally staged in 1934, Anything Goes is a silly seaside
farce featuring a lovely Cole Porter score and a newly revamped book by frequent Sondheim-collaborator John Weidman and Timothy Crouse, son of one of the
original authors. Starring Broadway’s best young leading lady—Sutton
Foster, who still would go unrecognized on most street corners despite having won
her second Tony for the role—the legendary Joel Grey and other theatrical legends, Anything Goes was tremendous fun. Foster was wonderful and it was a
treat to see Grey, John McMartin, Kelly Bishop—I know her from TV's Gilmore
Girls but she was an original Chorus Line Tony Winner—and the rest of the
cast, including Colin Donnell, Laura Osnes, Adam Godley and Jessica Stone, was also terrific.
---
I can't imagine anyone's still reading, as you're better off just going to New York yourself, but the last thing I'll mention is that I figured out how to get to LaGuardia Airport--where my outbound flight was on American--without needing a cab or shuttle (as even a 2pm matinee ending near 5pm didn't provide enough lead time for the shuttle to get me to the airport for an 8pm flight).
I just took the #1 subway line north to 116th and Broadway (at the heart of Columbia University) and caught the M60 bus to LaGuardia. It was fast, cheap, uncrowded and exceptionally easy. My total outlay for transportation from and to the New York airports this trip was less than $10, which was good given all else that I did. (If you need the New York transit website, it's MTA.info)
I can't imagine anyone's still reading, as you're better off just going to New York yourself, but the last thing I'll mention is that I figured out how to get to LaGuardia Airport--where my outbound flight was on American--without needing a cab or shuttle (as even a 2pm matinee ending near 5pm didn't provide enough lead time for the shuttle to get me to the airport for an 8pm flight).
I just took the #1 subway line north to 116th and Broadway (at the heart of Columbia University) and caught the M60 bus to LaGuardia. It was fast, cheap, uncrowded and exceptionally easy. My total outlay for transportation from and to the New York airports this trip was less than $10, which was good given all else that I did. (If you need the New York transit website, it's MTA.info)
3 comments:
Excellent post, Seth!! Thanks for sharing your journey with us (and all the goodies that came with it!) Makes me eager for another trip. I look forward to hearing more!
Dude, I read the whole thing. Regarding Marie's Crisis, the adres should clue you in to the theme of the place. :-)
Seth--you really covered a lot of ground in 4 days...."it's a wonderful town!"
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