London Beyond the Werewolves, Again: An Updated Travel Guide

All photos by Seth Arkin, except as noted.
Please do not re-post without attribution.

London is my favorite international destination, and I've had the pleasure of visiting the British capital 8 times, all except one in the 21st Century. (Several London stays have been brief ones on the end of other European travels.)

Back in 2011, a friend of mine was heading to London for the first time, which I used as a springboard to write something of a travel guide. (I've done likewise for San Francisco, Washington, DC, Detroit and New York theater.)

Upon hearing that another friend is soon going to London, I decided to reprise and--as needed--revise my recommendations and hopefully helpful links, having been there twice more since I initially wrote this.

But said friend has been to London before, and as my foremost travel tip is to "do what you want to do, or happily get lost on the way and do something completely different," I am aiming for this piece to be more universal than personally targeted.

Of course, my suggestions largely reflect my own proclivities--and those of many friends and relatives--and therefore represent a penchant for art, theater, music, sports and architecture more than, say, museums pertaining to science or natural history. (This also factors in attractions more unique to London than Chicago--where I live--or other major American cities.)

On my various visits, I've enjoyed nearly 30 full days in London and haven't even gotten to all the things I mention below. Plus, like New York, and even Chicago, London is a city where you could just pick any direction to walk--or a random Tube (subway) stop to exit--and discover untold pleasures, from the truly historic to the more modern and mundane, but no less enticing.

So take this for what it's worth (probably about what you paid;-), and blend it with your own inclinations, tastes, timetable and priorities. But I think my guide was valuable to the friend who inspired it, and perhaps anyone going to London--or considering it--may find something of value.

Before I get to a list of 20 things to see and do in London--and then some other options--here are a few websites that can be particularly valuable, before and even during the trip:

London Theatre Guide - londontheatre.co.uk
Official London Theatre Guide - www.officiallondontheatre.co.uk
TKTS Discount Listings (booth in Leicester Square) - http://www.tkts.co.uk/whats-on-sale/
London Walks (Great guided tours on various topics) - www.walks.com
London Underground (Tube) subway system - www.tfl.gov.uk
London Eating - www.london-eating.co.uk
Pollstar (concert listings; great for any city anywhere) - www.pollstar.com
National Rail - www.nationalrail.co.uk
Cheap Continental Flights from London - EasyJet.com and RyanAir.com
Rick Steves - My favorite travel writer, on London
Top 10 London - A great travel guide; new version only $2.99 for Kindle; older version can be perused on Amazon
Currency Converter - www.xe.com/ucc/

And as for other other tips that can prove quite helpful? Realize that the Tube can easily get you anywhere, is safe at all times (though wariness never hurts) and can easily save you over $100 getting to and from the airport. For tourists, I recommend the Oyster Card (multi-ride card), which allows you to add value online or at machines at Tube stations, and even refunds unused credit. Note that in terms of Tube "zones" only the airport will be in Zone 6; most other places tourists are likely to go will be in Zones 1 & 2.

Also, though they are ubiquitous to the point of being largely ignored by locals and repeat visitors, "Mind the Gap" and "Look Right" are two phrases that demand your attention and conscious thought. Anyone who's ridden a subway anywhere shouldn't have much difficulty minding the gap between the train and platform, but for American pedestrians, "Look Right" always seems perfectly quaint until the first time they're flattened by a bus coming from the right, not left, as they step into traffic. That's why it's written on the ground at every crosswalk; pay attention to it. And note that occasionally you're told to "Look Left."

OK, so here is a list of 20 things that I think anyone might enjoy seeing and doing in London. Some of these things could take all day; others probably just call for a few photos. A few are really just areas to walk around, which as I referenced above, could be the bulk of a great trip to London. (Hyperlinks below are to the most helpful point of reference I could find.)

1. Big Ben / Houses of Parliament - Probably the quintessential London sight; I find Big Ben to be one of the most attractive man-made structures in the world. Non-UK residents are restricted from climbing the Clock Tower, but can attend parliamentary debates. I've never timed it right to do so.

2. Buckingham Palace / Changing of the Guard - Completely touristy and probably only essential once, but fun and interesting to see. The Changing of the Guard takes place at 11:30am, on alternate days outside May-July, when it occurs daily. Check here for the Guard schedule and here for information on visiting the Buckingham Palace state rooms.

3. Tower of London - It's not really a tower, but an old fortress and castle dating back to the 11th century. I find it rather fascinating.

4. Tower Bridge - The most beautiful bridge in the world--and likely what the guy in Arizona thought he was buying in 1968. I've never gone to the exhibition inside, though I have walked across it.

5. National Gallery - I don't know that it's touted like the Louvre, Uffizi, Prado, Hermitage or Met, but the depth and breadth of its collection is as good as any I've any seen. And it's free. There's tons to see, but don't miss the roomful of Raphaels, Seurat's "Bathers at Asnieres" or some of many the great Reubens. Here's the museum's own guide to 30 of its highlights.

6. Westminster Abbey - Even if you don't care about royal weddings or funerals, the abbey is a must see for its design and all the famous souls who are buried within.

7. Theater - London's West End is the world's only rival to Broadway in New York. The two theater guides linked above, plus the TKTS listings for day-of-show discounts from a booth in Leicester Square, should help you pick a show (or five) you'll enjoy. I really enjoyed Matilda the Musical and seeing Les Miserables, still running in the city where it first did. Shakespeare's Globe theater is also a great option if there during the open-air season from April to October, though the facility now has an indoor venue as well. And in its 52nd year, Agatha Christie's The Mousetrap is always fun.

8. St. Paul's Cathedral - A bit separated from most other tourist sites, Christopher Wren's masterpiece is worth the effort to get to it, and even the walk to the top of the dome.


9. Piccadilly Circus / Leicester Square / Covent Garden - As I've mentioned, London has lots of great areas to just stroll around, but this is where I'd start. You'll be at the heart of the theater district (and not coincidentally, something of London's Times Square). Begin at the Statue of Eros and head west on Coventry Street to Leicester Square, and be sure to walk to and through Covent Garden.

10. Abbey Road - It's not all that easy to get to (St. John's Wood tube stop, not one called Abbey Road which is nowhere near the studio), the famed crosswalk has long been re-painted, the intersection is often busy and treacherous, and the studio is never open to the public. But for Beatles fanatics, a trek here is essential. You might consider taking a Beatles tour, which takes you to Abbey Road, and/or other London rock tours. Or perhaps even a day trip to Liverpool, less than a 3-hour train ride away. 

11. Imperial War Museum/ Churchill War Rooms - I found this museum to offer tremendously interesting insight to the great Prime Minister and Britain's actions during World War II. (For Americans not heading to London anytime soon, you may be interested to note that a fabulous Churchill Museum exists--within a Christopher Wren-designed church--in Fulton, Missouri, not far from St. Louis.)

12. Trafalgar Square / The Mall - Highlighted by Nelson's Column, Trafalgar Square is one of London's great public spaces. It is essentially the "front yard" to the National Gallery and National Portrait Gallery. Heading southwest from the square is "The Mall" which is actually a road that leads to Buckingham Palace. 

13. Tate Modern - London is filled with wonderful museums and the Tate Modern is one of the best collections of modern art in the world. Its location in a former power station is rather distinctive in its own right. Convenient to combine with a visit to St. Paul's Cathedral and...

14. Shakespeare/Dickens Walk / Globe Theater Tour - Even if you can't get to see a performance at the Globe, you can take a tour. And the guided London Walks tour on Shakespeare/Dickens is "not to be" missed, as it offers the best of times. It seems to operate on Wednesday and Sunday. Even if you don't go on a tour, try to get to The George, a medieval pub supposedly patronized by the Bard.

15. Hyde Park / Kensington Gardens / Marble Arch - Great cities have great parks and Hyde Park is one of the most famous anywhere. Look for Speakers' Corner near the northeast corner, the Serpentine lake and other sites of interest, including Kensington Gardens. Marble Arch is a monument, located near Speakers Corner, that will remind you of its Roman inspiration (and possibly the Washington Square Arch). 

16. British Museum - I haven't been here since my first London visit in 1993, but it is one of the world's great museums. Home to the Rosetta Stone and much else.

17. Courtauld Gallery - A fabulous and relatively intimate art museum, highlighted by some sensational Van Goghs and this notable Manet.

18. Madame Tussauds - Kitschy as hell, but this is the original wax museum, dates back nearly 200 years old and can be not only fun, but somewhat informative as well.

19. Chinatown / Soho - Sadly, Lee Ho Fook's, sung about by Warren Zevon in "Werewolves of London" is no longer--I really did once get a big dish of beef chow mein--but Chinatown is worth a walkthrough and perhaps a meal. Soho is a larger district, still a bit tawdry, but not too risque. I'd basically stroll up Shaftsbury Avenue from Piccadilly Circus; Soho is to the north; Gerrard St., which intersects with Wardour St. just south of Shaftsbury, is the main stretch of Chinatown.

20. Baker Street - Although Sherlock Holmes no longer lives a 221B Baker Street, there is a plaque above the door, the above statue nearby and even a museum at his supposed residence. The Baker Street tube station is one of London's oldest and decorated with Sherlock. The area is quite charming even beyond the Holmes' connection and Madame Tussauds is right around the corner. I imagine it also inspired this song.

Other Museums

National Portrait Gallery

Wallace Collection - Another outstanding art museum, in an old mansion. Great pre-Impressionism French and Spanish.

Victoria & Albert Museum - World's largest museum of decorative arts and design

Tate Britain - Turner, Reynolds, Gainsborough, Constable, Bacon, etc.

Royal Academy of the Arts

British Library - The main location is St. Pancras. Used to be part of the British Museum, so current library building is much newer than you'd expect.

Natural History Museum - Admission is free, as it is for the...

Science Museum

Saatchi Gallery - A contemporary art gallery, with free admission

Jewel Tower - There are no jewels, but an exhibition on the history of Parliament (no word on Funkadelic) 

Charles Dickens Museum - Arrive with great expectations; some may find Chuck's one-time home to offer a fine Twist.

The London Dungeon - A total tourist haunt, but may be fun in the spirit of Halloween. Offers discount tickets in combination with Madame Tussauds.

Snap Galleries - A rock 'n' roll photo gallery in the Piccadilly Arcade; basically a store but worth a look if nearby. (Map location)

Photo of Windsor Castle, not taken by me

Royal Residences (besides Buckingham Palace)

Kensington Palace - This one is within London, near the west end of Hyde Park; Wikipedia

Hampton Court Palace - Famed for its shrubbery "maze" this palace is southwest of London and requires taking a train from Waterloo Station; Wikipedia

Windsor Castle - To get here, take a train from Waterloo Station to Windsor. I've never visited the castle, but imagine it's pretty impressive if you're impressed by that kind of thing. Wikipedia

10 Downing Street - OK, this isn't really a royal residence, as it's the home of the Prime Minister. Although I've read that David Cameron actually lives at Number 11. But you can get a glimpse of if you walk south on Whitehall from Trafalgar Square. 

Quick Overviews

Double Decker Bus Tour - A bit pricey, but not a bad way to get to many of the sights in one fell swoop. Plus, I believe the regular double decker buses are largely obsolete, so a hop-on/hop-off tour bus may suffice in that regard.

London Eye - I've yet to go on this, as it's never really appealed to me, but I've heard it's rather enjoyable.

Spectator Events besides Theater

Soccer Game - Chelsea, Arsenal, Fulham, Queens Park Rangers and Tottenham Hotspur are all London-based English Premier League teams. Find a league schedule here. In 2011, I saw Chelsea play at Stamford Bridge stadium, having bought tickets from a "tout" outside. It was a lot of fun. 

Rock Concerts - Given England's great musical legacy, it could be fun to see a band in the capital, with something at Royal Albert Hall a real treat. Pollstar.com is the best way to check who might be in town. 

Ronnie Scott's Jazz Club - Located in Soho, London premier jazz club has operated since 1959.

Other "London Walks" of Note (see full schedule here)

The London of Oscar Wilde
Jack The Ripper Haunts
The Literary London Pub Walk
The Blitz
Rock & Roll London
The Beatles' Magical Mystery Tour
Secret London 

Modern Buildings

The Shard - Designed by Renzo Piano, it is the tallest building in the European Union and has an observation deck.
 

The Gherkin - Designed by Norman Foster and so nicknamed due to its pickle-like shape, it kind of looms over the Tower of London

City Hall - Designed by noted architect Norman Foster and opened in 2002.

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park - Site of the 2012 Summer Olympics.

Wembley Stadium - Opened in 2007 on the site of the old Wembley, dating back to 1923. Primarily used for football (soccer), rugby and concerts.

Neighborhoods not yet mentioned

Chelsea - Once was bohemian and later swinging, now seems largely upscale. Kings Road was the epicenter of its fashion district and the Sex Pistols were formed at Malcolm McLaren's SEX shop at 430 Kings Rd., but it's long gone.

Notting Hill - I've never been here, but I did see the movie. The area is said to be affluent & fashionable, but where in London isn't?

Butler's Wharf - The area at the south end of Tower Bridge, just to the east has abundant dining options and is a pleasant place to stroll.

Oxford St. / Carnaby St. - Oxford is one of London's major streets and Carnaby, a 3-block pedestrianed stretch in Soho, was once the center of Swinging London. Both have been fun to stroll along and do a little...

Shopping

Harrods - Probably the most famous department store in London, with origins dating back to 1824

Liberty - A really beautiful building near Oxford Street.

Savile Row - Famous for all its tailor shops. The Beatles' Let It Be rooftop concert took place atop 3 Savile Row.

Fortnum & Mason - Old and swanky. On Piccadilly Street, close to...

Hatchards - The oldest bookstore in London, dating back to 1797.

HMV - The closest thing to Tower Records and the Virgin Megastore, which no longer exist.

Eating & Drinking

Pubs - There are supposedly over 7,000 pubs in London, offering a culture far different than typical American bars. Hanging out and chatting with locals in a pub should be part of any London visit. Here's a list of six notable pubs. I don't have a favorite, but like The George Inn for its history and have had a fine Pub Roast Lunch at the Porcupine, near Leicester Square.

Afternoon Tea at the Cavendish - Many other "high tea" options abound, but I've only been here and it seems rather quintessential.

Hard Rock Cafe - This was the chain's first location.

Indian Food - I don't remember too many thrilling meals in London, but know I got some great Indian food, and purveyors are easy to find. Sitar on the Strand near the Somerset House (the Courtauld Gallery is located within) was pretty good. 

Gordon Ramsey - I've yet to splurge on a high-end meal in London, but hopefully will one day try one of the establishments of this popular TV chef

Etc. 

See Red - They may still seem somewhat ubiquitous and obvious, but be sure to acutely note the red double decker buses, phone booths and mail boxes, as these are things largely evaporating from London, and in basic essence, everywhere. Also enjoy the old style taxis.

Wimbledon Grounds - I tried to get here on my last trip to London, but was precluded by rain and some Tube closures. There is a museum and tours are conducted.

Stroll Along the Thames - There is no shortage of wonderful places to walk in London, but walking west along the Thames River, from the Tate Modern to the Houses of Parliament was one of most enjoyable things I've done there.

Where The Kinks Began - Ray and Dave Davies grew up at 6 Denmark Terrace (along Fortis Green) in North London. I don't think there's any commemoration of the home itself, but a pub across the street--The Clissold Arms--is where The Kinks played their first show, and their last. The pub has a Kinks Room with band memorabilia.

Tube Randomly - I've never really done this, but it seems it could be cool to randomly select a Tube stop, get off and explore.

Ideally, this guide will provide any visitor to London with abundant options of intriguing things to do, see and experience, though I imagine one could really do very little of this and still have a great time.

A Tale of Two Cities -- My Week in London & Paris (Part II of III)

(See also Part I and my London travel guide)

As I began detailing in this post, a few weeks ago--OK, now over a month--I had an opportunity to go to London and Paris on the cheap, so I was in the former and then the latter from a Saturday through the following Friday. In London, I stayed with my friend from Chicago, Paolo, who was there on business and put up in a corporate apartment.

In Part I of my travelogue, I got up to about 1pm on Monday, the prior three hours of which I fruitlessly wasted standing in line for a day-of ticket to the da Vinci exhibit at the National Gallery in London.

Monday Afternoon

After that fiasco, I went over to the TKTS booth and was fortunately still able to get tix for the evening show Paolo and I wanted to see. More on that later.

From there I headed to Carnaby Street, which is essentially a 3-blocked pedestrianed shopping district in between Picadilly Circus and Oxford Circus. In the 60s, Carnaby was the epicenter of "swinging London." If you can imagine Pete Townshend and Brian Jones and Ray Davies and Marianne Faithfull, and a bit later Paul Weller and retroactively Austin Powers, well, they probably shopped on Carnaby Street (or wanted you to think they did).

Despite my many past visits to London, I have never knowingly walked through Carnaby Street, so I wanted to do so, especially in getting to Oxford Street, which I hadn't strolled since my initial visit in 1993.

The first Carnaby St. store I saw, coming from the South, was Pretty Green, which takes its name from a Jam song and is owned by Liam Gallagher, formerly of Oasis. Big pictures of Liam, and Paul Weller, were in the windows.

The Pretty Green clothing line was rather pricey and didn't really appeal to me, but the shop clerks had a refreshing lack of attitude. And in the basement of the shop, there was an exhibit on The Who's Quadrophenia album. It wasn't all that stupendous, but worth a look as it had some nice relics like the master tapes.

Other than Pretty Green, Carnaby Street is now rather disappointingly filled with American stores, like American Apparel, The North Face and Vans.

I got some stuff at a store called Soccer Scene, stopped for Fish 'n Chips and a lager at a pub called Shakespeare's Head and got a great cookie at Ben's Cookies. It was fun walking in the footsteps of history and thinking of the days when Hendrix played the nearby Marquee Club, but I can't report that Carnaby Street remains all that swinging.

Now, back to Oxford Street after a 18-year absence. You see, when I first visited London in 1993, I stayed at a Youth Hostel just off Oxford, with Oxford Circus being the closest tube stop. So that was the center of my world on my first, and what remains the longest, exploration of the British capital. But I recall feeling that Picadilly Circus was considerably cooler than Oxford Circus, so though it's only a tube stop and relatively brief stroll away, I'd never gotten back to Oxford Street during my London visits of the '00s.

It was nicely nostalgic to walk east on Oxford from the Circus to the Tottenham Court Rd. Tube stop, and there was more foot traffic on Oxford than I'd seen around Picadilly or elsewhere. It seemed really vibrant, even abuzz. I went into a couple stores, but at this point don't remember which or why. I also strolled around Soho Square, where several media companies have offices. I remember seeing Paul McCartney's MPL Communications headquarters there in 1993, but didn't notice it this time. But there was a good bit of construction going on.

It required a tube ride to get there, but my next stop was Westminster Abbey. I've been to, and toured, the Abbey at least once or twice, but like the architecture, history and all the famous souls buried underneath. It was around 4:30 and the church had been closed to general tourists since 3pm, but a few people were lining up for a 5:00 service. I figured, what the heck, a good way to see the abbey, if only a limited section, for free. And I got the sense that many of the other attendees were also tourists. There was no spiritual awakening, but it was kind of cool.


Theater Review

Priscilla, Queen of the Desert
Palace Theater, London
@@@1/2

Priscilla is a musical that has been quite successful in London--it opened right around my last visit in April 2009--and is now also running on Broadway. I had never seen it, but Paolo had already seen it 4 or 5 times and really raved about it. So I was excited to see it, more than any other show currently in London, most of which I had already seen.

Based on a 1994 film of the same name that I also haven't seen, it is about two drag queens and one transsexual who travel from Sydney to Alice Springs, a remote resort town in Australia. The music is performed and sung live, but consists of what I can best summarize as old disco hits. This isn't technically true in all cases--you can see the song list on Wikipedia--but high energy numbers included "I Love The Night Life," "Shake Your Groove Thing" and "Hot Stuff," sometimes sung by a trio of divas high above the stage.

The story was enjoyable, with plenty of humor, and made Priscilla much more a theatrical work than Thriller (reviewed in Part I), but the show basically revolved around the high energy songs. Though many were quite fun, in sum it seemed like too much of the same thing. There were also a few song choices that seemed iffy, but I'm guessing rights clearance issues may have been a factor. As a piece of entertainment, Priscilla--the show's name comes from that of the hot pink tour bus of the traveling entertainers--was more good than bad, but I wasn't nearly as enthralled as Paolo. I'm glad I saw it, but don't see it as a show for the ages.

Tuesday

Tuesday morning, I left Paolo's apartment even before he left for work and went for a long walk. The photo at right shows the Shard, a Renzo Piano skyscraper that I didn't walk past on Tuesday, but had on Sunday and Monday. When finished, supposedly in May, it will be the tallest building in the European Union.

The Shard, which is near the London Bridge Tube station, was  fairly close to Paolo's flat, but on Tuesday morning, I walked in the other direction in order to reach Tower Bridge, also nearby.

I think the Tower Bridge is the most beautiful bridge in the world, although quite a different structure than the Golden Gate or Sydney Harbor Bridge.

It's possible to walk to the top of the Tower Bridge, but there's a fee involved--and also a bunch of stairs--so I didn't bother. But I enjoyed walking across it, looking out over the Thames, and winding up next to the Tower of London.

The Tower of London, whose "White Tower" dates back to 1078, is one of the best tourist sites in London, but I've toured it twice, so I was content just to take photos from the outside.

The Tower Bridge is at left, with the Tower of London shown below.

It was a somewhat brisk morning in London so I got a good hot chocolate and a couple great pastries at a stand called apostrophe near the Tower. 

I then walked through the City of London business district, probably not far from where Paolo was working and wound up at my specific destination: St. Paul's Cathedral. I had been there--and to the top of the dome--before, but not on any of my recent trips and felt it deserved learning a bit more about.

On a prior trip to London, I had discovered an excellent outfit called London Walks, which conducts several different tours throughout the city. In the past, I had taken an Oscar Wilde tour and a Dickens/Shakespeare tour. 

This time, the available tour that appealed to me most was one called Secrets & Splendors of St. Paul, taking place at 10:30 Tuesday morning.

When I arrived at the majestic St. Paul's, I discovered that it was the site that Occupy London was occupying. I thought that the tent city there was rather impressive and would have tried to strike up a conversation, but didn't readily see anyone to talk to. And though I generally support and respect the Occupy movement--at least theoretically--I couldn't think of anything that I would ask the London occupiers.

But I was somewhat annoyed at how irritated my London Walks tour guide--who was otherwise quite good--seemed to be by the protesters, who at that point were so peaceful as not to be seen or heard.

The tour--which added onto but discounted the normal admission price to get into St. Paul's--was quite worthwhile. It didn't include a trek to the top of the dome or the Whispering Gallery partway to the top, as the tour guide said she was afraid of heights, but I didn't feel the need--or legpower--to do that again, anyway.

I learned about how St. Paul's was saved from devastation during World War II when much else around it was destroyed. As it was explained, the German "bombs" weren't explosives, but rather fire sticks; buildings weren't blown up, but simply burned down.

With Winston Churchill insistent that St. Paul's must be saved, dedicated groups of Londoners would stand atop the dome and as the fire sticks rained down, they would field them and douse them in sand buckets before they could do much damage. Hence, St. Paul's survived, largely unscathed.

I also noted some of the tombs in the crypt, including famed painters like Reynolds and Turner, and directly beneath the dome, Lord Nelson.

After seeing St. Paul's--no photos were allowed inside--I made my way to the Leicester Square TKTS booth and got a discounted pair for the show Paolo & I desired for the evening.

Although London has several excellent art museums I easily could have chosen to visit on my last afternoon in town--including the National Gallery once again, the Tate Modern and Tate Britain, Victoria & Albert Museum and more--I made my way to the Courtauld Gallery, which I had been to once before but wanted to see again.

On my way along the Strand, I stopped to have Indian food for lunch at a restaurant named Sitar (I had forgotten the name, but just reminded myself via Google Maps street view). I didn't order all that much, some samosas, garlic naan and a half order of a curry with cheese, but it was all good.

The Courtauld Gallery, part of the Courtauld Institute of Art, is within a large building called the Somerset House, which dates back to 1776. There was a ice rink set up in the courtyard, but I didn't join the skaters. The multi-floor gallery isn't that extensive, but it's collection is excellent, with three of the highlights shown below. Though not free like the National Gallery, admission was a very reasonable 6 pounds. I really enjoyed it and was glad I made the effort to get there.

I was supposed to meet Paolo for high tea at the Cavendish at 5:30, but gladly had some time to stop into two nearby shops, one planned, one unplanned.

I had read about a rock 'n roll photo gallery called Snap Galleries because in the past couple years it had an exhibition on photos taken by Eric Meola for Bruce Springsteen's Born to Run album. They still had a few of those photos, as well as an oversized book of BTR session photos, but it was also fun to see other classic photos, of the Beatles, Stones and others. The gallery director was a friendly guy, named Guy, and was fun to talk with.

Through far from being able to afford anything I saw, I really enjoyed two Abbey Road outtakes that were in the windows. After all these years, it's a bit off-putting to see the Beatles walking in the opposite direction than on the album cover. 

 The other store, I stopped into twice--once because it looked cool, then again a few minutes later when I still had some time and decided I wanted to buy something--was a book store called Hatchards. I hadn't ever heard of it, but they claim to be "the oldest surviving bookshop in London," dating back to 1797. But what caught my eye was all the signed editions they had, of new books by people like Umberto Eco, among others.

On my second time through Hatchards in a matter of minutes, I figured I'd pick up something for my friend Dave, who's a voracious reader. A paperback called War Damage caught my eye, as it was one of the store's best sellers and signed by its author, Elizabeth Wilson. As I brought it to the cashier, he said, "You just missed her, she was just here signing."

Dave reports that the book was pretty good.

So then it was time for high tea, an experience I'd never had. As such it was quite enjoyable to sit within a luxury hotel--the Cavendish--and be served tea with finger sandwiches and pastries. Sure, it felt a bit pretentious and wasn't really "my thing," but as theater--for about half the cost of a half-price theater ticket--it was pleasant to observe and even partake in.

Then it was time for a show Paolo and I were both looking forward to, a recently-opened musical based on a popular movie. Unfortunately, it wasn't as good as we had hoped.

Ghost the Musical
Picadilly Theatre, London
@@

Although before departing for London I had noted that reviews of Ghost--the new musical that had opened in July--were rather lukewarm, I still felt it was something I wanted to see. Not only was it one of the few musicals in London yet to play Broadway, or Chicago, for that matter--a Broadway opening is now slated for April--but though far from fanatical about the movie, I recalled it favorably. I figured "how awful could the musical be," especially as the reviews didn't seem to be that negative.

Well, and Paolo would concur, it was pretty darn awful. In fact, about the only good thing I can say about it, is that the actors who played the leads--as did Demi Moore and Patrick Swayze in the movie--were, not surprisingly, rather attractive.

But they weren't particularly great singers or actors, and I didn't like the guy who played the creep, Carl, but perhaps that meant he did his job well. And though we got an understudy for Oda Mae Brown (Whoopi Goldberg in the movie), there was something rather distasteful about her character.

I was somewhat surprised to learn that the movie's writer, Bruce Joel Rubin, had written the musical's book and collaborated on the lyrics, with Dave Stewart (of the Eurythmics) and Glen Ballard. For even though Ballard is noted for many schmaltzy pop ballads, you'd at least expect the music of Ghost to be tuneful. But forget trying to remember any of it over a month later; it was forgettable before we were out of the theater.

In fact, enough time has passed that I can really enunciate all that was wrong with Ghost, just that it seemed hackneyed and amateurish. With many video projections substituting for real sets (although there was also actual scenery), what in small doses seemed inspired, in full felt cheap.

Anyway, it was a disappointing way to end my time in London, as the next morning--quite early, especially in light of a looming transit strike--I would leave Paolo's flat, head to St. Pancras station and take a 2 hr. 20 minute train ride to Paris.

When I post Part III, that's where I'll resume and promise to keep it brief.

A Tale of Two Cities -- My Week In London & Paris (Part I)

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times.

Actually, except for waiting in a line--er, queue--for 3 hours to see the Da Vinci exhibit at the National Gallery in London and then being turned away, it really wasn't ever the worst of times, and even that's being rather hyperbolic. But though I wore myself down to the point of pain, as I typically do in exploring foreign locales--even those in America--I had a rather splendid time in two of the world's greatest cities on a quick sojourn a couple weeks ago.

Having just completed a contract work assignment without another having one lined up--always a double-edged sword--the chance to go to London sans airfare (due to having a reservoir of frequent flier miles) or lodging costs (thanks to my friend Paolo being put up in a corporate apartment with a couch calling my name) was too opportune to pass up.

Of course, I tacked on a couple days in Paris and a number of spectator events, but the trip was still rather inexpensive for what it was. And although it was very exciting and while I almost exclusively did "touristy" things, because it came with little advance planning and took me to cities I've previously visited, it was, relatively speaking, a rather low key European vacation.

This was my 7th time in London, where I've often stopped at the end of other trips in recent years, so I certainly didn't deem it vital to get to everything I wrote about in this travel guide. And though it had been 11 years since I'd  last been in Paris, two prior visits made this one more quick & focused than all-encompassing.

But here's what I did.

Saturday

After flying into Heathrow and taking the tube (officially known as the London Underground), switching lines and getting off at Borough station, then shlepping my (luckily, rolling) suitcase down a street called Long Lane, I arrived at Paolo's building. Fortunately, he was there.

After a bit of a nap since I didn't really sleep on the plane, we went out to attend the Chelsea football (soccer) game against Wolverhampton at Stamford Bridge Stadium.

We didn't have tickets, but upon exiting the tube station, we found a somewhat shady "tout" with tickets, and even more to be had from his friend with the souvenir stand.

Tickets weren't cheap, even in the nosebleed seats, but only a few quid more than we would have paid for them had we been able to buy them through the Chelsea website.

I'm admittedly somewhat of a world soccer dilettante; appreciating the sport's legacy, lore and cultural impact almost everywhere but the U.S., but often being bored with the game itself. I've been to a handful (and maybe a footful) of games in Chicago, including when Real Madrid, Chelsea and most recently this summer, Manchester United, have come to town for exhibition matches. But I had never been to an English Premier League (the "major leagues" of British soccer) game, so I was glad to have the opportunity to do so.

Though all three of their goals seemed be scored in quick, almost fluke fashion, Chelsea pretty much dominated the whole game. It was fun to see, as well as to get a bit of a flavor of an English soccer crowd. There was one drunk guy who caused a bit of a ruckus, but otherwise the crowd was rather low-key, with a number of fathers and sons reminiscent of a baseball game back home.

Although Stamford Bridge is an old stadium, it was--according to Wikipedia--renovated in the '90s, so I was surprised that it seats "just" 42,000 people and seemingly lacks corporate skyboxes.

Leaving the stadium and returning to the tube station was not so unlike what I've encountered at Cubs, Sox and major events everywhere--I was reminded of my trip to Yankee Stadium in August--but that made it fun in theory, not in sardine can reality.

Also in theory, I should have wanted to catch a West End theatrical performance on Saturday evening. But having flown in that morning, I was pretty much running on fumes after the football game. Even if we had been able to get to the TKTS booth in Leicester Square and snag a seat for something worthwhile that evening, I likely would have been asleep early in Act I. So with Paolo passionate about getting duck with noodles in Chinatown, that's where we went.

And wound up at a place quite originally called London Chinatown. Paolo was like a duck in water over his duck with noodles, but thinking I should get something more original than my typical sweet & sour pork, I ordered pork with noodles. It was fine, but I should've got the sweet & sour. 

Sunday

The couch in the flat Paolo had was a 2-seater, not 3. So sleeping on it meant that my feet overhung the end. Though I wouldn't have cared too much regardless, given the dramatic cost savings, I was worried about how I would sleep. I envisioned being up at 6am, so I was somewhat surprised when I woke (as Paolo left the flat for a workout nearby) at 9:14am on Sunday.

The night before I was imagining we might try getting in line for the Da Vinci exhibit early Sunday morning, but based on what would happen on Monday, I'm glad we didn't bother.

After getting out of the flat in mid-morning, we headed to the TKTS booth. Not much plays on Sunday in London, but one of the shows that does is Thriller Live, a tribute to Michael and the Jacksons that was created prior to MJ's death. Paolo had seen it before and praised it, and though I'm not the world's biggest Jackson fan, I appreciated Michael's talent. So we grabbed a pair of half-price tickets for the 3pm show.

Also at Paolo's recommendation, we then went to have a Pub Roast lunch, winding up at a place called the Porcupine. I had lamb with potatoes and Yorkshire pudding; it was quite good. I believe Paolo went with the chicken selection and enjoyed it as well.

We then did a good bit of walking, in one of the world's great cities to do so. Through Trafalgar Square, down Whitehall to Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament, then across the Thames to the London Eye (which we didn't board), and back across the Thames via the Millennium bridge, then through Leicester Square up to the theater on Shaftsbury Avenue.

This might just sound like killing some time before a matinee, but to me, simply meandering is one of the best things one can do in London. The city--as most European cities are--is akin to an outdoor museum, with so much much of beauty to see and photograph. With the rapid-fire setting on my point 'n shoot, I took literally thousands of snapshots.

Here's one down the Thames; Big Ben and Parliament are the other way, but the sun was too bright.

Theater Review:
Thriller Live
Lyric Theatre, London
@@@1/2

I knew going in that this was just a revue, just musical numbers without a storyline or even much in the way of biography. There were many excellent performers onstage, with at least 4 men, one woman and one male child taking turns singing the lead on songs by the Jackson 5 and Michael Jackson.

I enjoyed it for what it was, and have no problem recommending it to those with a hankering to relive some of the most exciting pop songs ever created. But as theater I can't say that it was phenomenal, nor even enriched my regard for Michael.

Not that I really wanted it to have a storyline, but it felt more like something one should see in a Las Vegas showroom than in a prestigious West End theater. Parts of it--as one might expect, Billie Jean, late in the show--really were thrilling, but as a whole it was quite good, but not quite fantastic.

Though I had had a good night's sleep, by 6pm on Sunday--when it was already long dark in London--I was still rather weary. I knew the Bears were playing at 3:15pm in Chicago, but any thoughts of trying to find somewhere showing the game at 9:15pm in London soon became unimportant.

After doing some damage at a souvenir shop near Picadilly Circus called Cool Britannia, where I got this mini-Union Jack guitar, Paolo and I went back to Borough and wound up in a pub called the Trinity, where I got what passes for a good British cheeseburger and a pint of a beer I do not recall.

Monday

Paolo works (mostly in Chicago) for a London-based company, which is why he was in London and availed of a flat, which I was graciously able to share. So during business hours on Monday and Tuesday, I was on my own.

Which, having been in London and elsewhere numerous times by myself, was no problem. Except that he hopefully would have talked me out of waiting in line for the da Vinci exhibit, which would prove to be an exhausting and infuriating waste of time.

Now, I love great art, of which the few extant works of Leonardo certainly qualify, but when I first noticed that the National Gallery was hosting an exhibition, it already too late to buy advance tickets for timed entry (even if I were to be in London through February). But as attested to by this post, the National Gallery has one of my favorite collections in the world, and with free entry, I figured another non-exhibition visit there would quite suffice.

But then I read somewhere, I though in TIME, but I can't find it, something calling the da Vinci the "best art exhibit ever." So per this statement on the exhibit website--A limited number of tickets will be available to purchase in person on each day of the exhibition. However these are subject to availability and likely to sell out quickly--I figured I should get in line prior to the museum opening at 10am on Monday morning and see if I couldn't get a ticket.

When I got to the back of the queue at 9:45am, unaware of just how far it snaked around, a member of the museum's security staff forthrightly told me, "You're not assured of getting in, and if you do, it will be for entry at 4:30pm." She also suggested the wait just to reach the ticket desk was at least 2 hours.

Admittedly, I was stupid for not walking away just then and finding something else to do in London. But though I wasn't expecting to walk right into the exhibit, I had planned to give some time to it, so I asked the guard, "Will you let us know when it's definite that we won't get tickets?" (meaning me and those near me). To which I was told, "Yes."

Soon thereafter, they stopped letting people join the back of the line, so I thought I might have a good chance. Two hours went by with nary a word, so again, I assumed the best, even venturing to turn on my iPhone--with international roaming rates--to try calling Paolo to ask if he'd be able to join me at 4:30. Fortunately, he didn't answer.

Two hours in, the security lady told a woman about 10 people ahead of me that she would likely be the last to get in. Word of this just grapevined through the line, but nothing was said to the rest of us. So I asked another guard if I was out of luck and should just leave. He said, "You're that close, I'd stick it out."

So I did--and not to kvetch too much, but standing for prolonged periods gets rather painful for my legs and back--for what amounted to another hour. At which point, I was two people from being let into the museum. But that would've only been to be a bit warmer while waiting for the ticket desk. That was when we were told we wouldn't get in.

I was rather upset about the time I wasted, my physical discomfort and a sense that the security guards could have been more candid. I mentioned that the one guard had told me to invest the third hour of waiting and he went off about how "he could never win."

Now certainly, there are infinite worse things in the world. But what still pisses me off is that 1) The woman who was told she would be the last to get tickets wound up not being able to. That's goofy. 2) Supposedly they had 500 tickets to sell for the day; likely 50 or so slotted for each half hour. What the heck took 3 hours? Print the tickets, take people's cash, hand out the tickets. Not so hard. Two days later I got into an even longer line to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower; I reached the cashier windows in a half-hour. 3) What would be the harm in letting the last people in line--the ones allowed to queue up, but ultimately shut out--purchase tickets for the next day? Call me crazy, but that would just seem fair.

So while I blame myself for the fiasco, I don't think I'm wrong for feeling something was badly mishandled.

Anyway, after all this, I did go into the National Gallery and saw some of my favorite paintings, such as this one by Raphael and this one by Seurat, but my heart wasn't into it.

Which still only brings us to about 1pm on Monday, but with a book I want to read, I think I'll pause here and bring you Part II (and Part III) as soon as I can.

London Beyond the Werewolves: A Personal Travel Guide

I recently learned that my friend Wendy and her significant other will be going to London in late October for the first time.

Having been to the British capital on a half-dozen occasions--often at the tail of other European travels--and believing it to be, along with New York, the world's best tourist city, I offered to write this guide.

Although many of my recommendations will be fairly traditional for an initial London visit, they reflect not only my proclivities, but those I share with Wendy. We both love art, theater and rock 'n roll--here's a piece on "songs of London" I wrote for another friend's visit--and given the plethora of other options, are likely to skip the Natural History and Science museums, especially with easy access to great ones in Chicago.

I believe Wendy and her boyfriend will be spending roughly five days in London, which is plenty of time to see plenty, yet not nearly long enough to see everything of value. On my various visits, I've probably enjoyed 20 full days in London and haven't even gotten to all the things I'm suggesting for Wendy. And like New York, and even Chicago, London is a city where you could just pick any direction to walk--or a random Tube (subway) stop to exit--and discover untold pleasures, from the truly historic to the more modern and mundane, but no less enticing.

Before I get to a list of 20 things to see and do in London--and then some other options--here are a few websites that can be particularly valuable, before and even during the trip:

London Theatre Guide - londontheatre.co.uk
Official London Theatre Guide - www.officiallondontheatre.co.uk
TKTS Discount Listings (booth in Leicester Square) - www.officiallondontheatre.co.uk/tkts/whats_on_today/
London Walks (Great guided tours on various topics) - www.walks.com
London Underground (Tube) system - www.tfl.gov.uk
London Eating - www.london-eating.co.uk
Pollstar (concert listings; great for any city anywhere) - www.pollstar.com
National Rail - www.nationalrail.co.uk
Cheap Continental Flights from London - EasyJet.com and RyanAir.com
Rick Steves - My favorite travel writer; on London and Great Britain
Top 10 London - A great travel guide, which Amazon lets you freely peruse
Currency Converter - www.xe.com/ucc/

And as for other other tips that can prove quite helpful? Realize that the Tube can easily get you anywhere, is safe at all times (though wariness never hurts) and can easily save you over $100 getting to and from the airport. I haven't ever used an Oyster Card (multi-ride card for visitors) but it seems like it can be a good deal. Note that in terms of Tube "zones" only the airport will be in Zone 6; most other places tourists are likely to go will be in Zones 1 & 2.

Also, though they are ubiquitous to the point of being largely ignored by locals and repeat visitors, "Mind the Gap" and "Look Right" are two phrases that demand your attention and conscious thought. Anyone who's ridden a subway anywhere shouldn't have much difficulty minding the gap between the train and platform, but for American pedestrians, "Look Right" always seems perfectly quaint until the first time they're flattened by a bus coming from the right, not left, as they step into traffic. That's why it's written on the ground at every crosswalk; pay attention to it. And note that occasionally you're told to "Look Left."

OK, so here is a list of 20 things that I think Wendy, or anyone, might enjoy seeing and doing in London. Some of these things could take all day; others probably just call for a few photos. A few are really just areas to walk around, which as I referenced above, could be the bulk of a great trip to London. (Hyperlinks below are to the most helpful point of reference I could find.)

1. Big Ben / Houses of Parliament - Probably the quintessential London sight; I find Big Ben to be one of the most attractive man-made structures in the world. Non-UK residents are restricted from climbing the Clock Tower, but can attend parliamentary debates. I've never timed it right to do so.

2. Buckingham Palace / Changing of the Guard - Completely touristy and probably only essential once, but fun and interesting to see. There is no public entry to the palace after October 3, but the Changing of the Guard takes place at 11:30am, on even numbered days in October.

3. Tower of London - It's not really a tower, but an old fortress and castle dating back to the 11th century. I find it rather fascinating.

4. Tower Bridge - The most beautiful bridge in the world--and likely what the guy in Arizona thought he was buying in 1968. I've never gone to the exhibition inside, though I have walked across it.

5. National Gallery - I don't know that it's touted like the Louvre, Uffizi, Prado, Hermitage or Met, but the depth and breadth of its collection is as good as any I've any seen. And it's free. There's tons to see, but don't miss the roomful of Raphaels, Seurat's "Bathers at Asnieres" or some of many the great Reubens. Here's the museum's own guide to 30 of its highlights.

6. Westminster Abbey - Even if you don't care about royal weddings or funerals, the abbey is a must see for its design and all the famous souls who are buried within.

7. Theater - London's West End is the world's only rival to Broadway in New York. Shakespeare's open-air Globe Theater will be closed for shows by late-October, but knowing Wendy's preference for dramas over musicals, War Horse and The Kitchen look like well-reviewed possibilities. For star power, Driving Miss Daisy is featuring Vanessa Redgrave and James Earl Jones. And in its 49th year, Agatha Christie's The Mousetrap is always fun.

8. St. Paul's Cathedral - A bit separated from most other tourist sites, Christopher Wren's masterpiece is worth the effort to get to it, and even the walk to the top of the dome.

9. Piccadilly Circus / Leicester Square / Covent Garden - As I've mentioned, London has lots of great areas to just stroll around, but this is where I'd start. You'll be at the heart of the theater district (and not coincidentally, something of London's Times Square). Begin at the Statue of Eros and head west on Coventry Street to Leicester Square, and be sure to walk to and through Covent Garden.

10. Abbey Road - It's not all that easy to get to (St. John's Wood tube stop, not one called Abbey Road which is nowhere near the studio), the famed crosswalk has long been re-painted, the intersection is often busy and treacherous, and the studio is never open to the public. But for Beatles fanatics, a trek here is essential. You might consider taking a Beatles tour, which takes you to Abbey Road, and/or other London rock tours. Or perhaps even a day trip to Liverpool, less than a 3-hour train ride away.

11. Churchill War Rooms - Formerly known as the Churchill Museum and Cabinet War Rooms, I found this museum to offer tremendously interesting insight to the great Prime Minister and Britain's actions during World War II. (For Americans not heading to London anytime soon, you may be interested to note that a fabulous Churchill Museum exists--within a Christopher Wren-designed church--in Fulton, Missouri, not far from St. Louis.)

12. Tate Modern - London is filled with wonderful museums and the Tate Modern is one of the best collections of modern art in the world. Its location in a former power station is rather distinctive in its own right.

13. Hyde Park / Kensington Gardens / Marble Arch - Great cities have great parks and Hyde Park is one of the most famous anywhere. Look for Speakers' Corner near the northeast corner, the Serpentine lake and other sites of interest, including Kensington Gardens. Marble Arch is a monument, located near Speakers Corner, that will remind you of its Roman inspiration (and possibly the Washington Square Arch).

14. Shakespeare/Dickens Walk / Globe Theater - As I mentioned above, you won't be able to see a performance at the Globe, but can take a tour. And the guided London Walks tour on Shakespeare/Dickens is "not to be" missed, as it offers the best of times. It seems to operate on Wednesday and Sunday. Even if you don't go on a tour, try to get to The George, a medieval pub supposedly patronized by the Bard.

15. British Museum - I haven't been here since my first London visit in 1993, but it is one of the world's great museums. Home to the Rosetta Stone and much else.

16. Trafalgar Square / The Mall - Highlighted by Nelson's Column, Trafalgar Square is one of London's great public spaces. It is essentially the "front yard" to the National Gallery and National Portrait Gallery. Heading southwest from the square is "The Mall" which is actually a road that leads to Buckingham Palace.

17. Madame Tussauds - Kitschy as hell, but this is the original wax museum, dates back nearly 200 years old and can be not only fun, but somewhat informative as well.

18. Courtauld Gallery - A fabulous and relatively intimate art museum, highlighted by some sensational Van Goghs and this notable Manet.

19. Chinatown / Soho - Sadly, Lee Ho Fook's, sung about by Warren Zevon in "Werewolves of London" is no longer--I really did once get a big dish of beef chow mein--but Chinatown is worth a walkthrough and perhaps a meal. Soho is a larger district, still a bit tawdry, but not too risque. I'd basically stroll up Shaftsbury Avenue from Piccadilly Circus; Soho is to the north; Gerrard St., which intersects with Wardour St. just south of Shaftsbury, is the main stretch of Chinatown.

20. Baker Street - Although Sherlock Holmes no longer lives a 221B Baker Street, there is a plaque above the door, the above statue nearby and even a museum at his supposed residence. The Baker Street tube station is one of London's oldest and decorated with Sherlock. The area is quite charming even beyond the Holmes' connection and Madame Tussauds is right around the corner. I imagine it also inspired this song.

Other Museums

National Portrait Gallery

Wallace Collection - Another outstanding art museum, in an old mansion. Great pre-Impressionism French and Spanish.

Victoria & Albert Museum - World's largest museum of decorative arts and design

Tate Britain - Turner, Reynolds, Gainsborough, Constable, Bacon, etc.

Royal Academy of the Arts - Features an exhibit on Degas and the Ballet

British Library - The main location is St. Pancras. Used to be part of the British Museum, so current library building is much newer than you'd expect.

Natural History Museum - Admission is free, as it is for the...

Science Museum

Saatchi Gallery - A contemporary art gallery, with free admission

Jewel Tower - There are no jewels, but an exhibition on the history of Parliament (no word on Funkadelic) 

Charles Dickens Museum - Hope you didn't have great expectations, since this museum will be closed from September 19 to November 7. But after then, some may find Chuck's one-time home to offer a fine Twist.

The London Dungeon - A total tourist haunt, but may be fun in the spirit of Halloween. Offers discount tickets in combination with Madame Tussauds.

Snap Galleries - A rock 'n' roll photo gallery in the Piccadilly Arcade. I haven't been here, but they seem to have cool stuff.

Royal Residences (besides Buckingham Palace)

Kensington Palace - This one is within London, near the west end of Hyde Park; Wikipedia

Hampton Court Palace - Famed for its shrubbery "maze" this palace is southwest of London and requires taking a train from Waterloo Station; Wikipedia

Windsor Castle - To get here, take a train from Waterloo Station to Windsor. I've never visited the castle, but imagine it's pretty impressive if you're impressed by that kind of thing. Wikipedia

10 Downing Street - OK, this isn't really a royal residence, as it's the home of the Prime Minister. Although I've read that David Cameron actually lives at Number 11. But you can get a glimpse of if you walk south on Whitehall from Trafalgar Square. 

Quick Overviews

Double Decker Bus Tour - A bit pricey, but not a bad way to get to many of the sights in one fell swoop. Plus, I believe the regular double decker buses are largely obsolete, so a hop-on/hop-off tour bus may suffice in that regard.

London Eye - I've yet to go on this, as it's never really appealed to me, but Paolo lauds it.

Spectator Events besides Theater

Soccer Game - Chelsea, Arsenal, Fulham, Queens Park Rangers and Tottenham Hotspur are all London-based English Premier League teams. This is a league schedule for October. Perhaps if Wendy is still in London on Saturday, October 29th, she can catch Chelsea play Arsenal at Stamford Bridge stadium, though I imagine tickets aren't cheap.

Rock Concerts - Given England's great musical legacy, it could be fun to see a band in the capital, with something at Royal Albert Hall a real treat. Pollstar.com is the best way to check who might be in town; I noticed that Wilco will be at the Roundhouse on October 28 & 29. Tickets here. 

Ronnie Scott's Jazz Club - Located in Soho, London premier jazz club has operated since 1959.

Football Game - No, not a soccer game, an NFL matchup between the Chicago Bears and Tampa Bay Buccaneers at Wembley Stadium on October 23. Not sure if Wendy will be there by then, but I wish I was. Tickets here.  

Other London Walks of Note (see full schedule here)

The London of Oscar Wilde
Jack The Ripper Haunts
The Literary London Pub Walk
The Blitz
Rock & Roll London
The Beatles' Magical Mystery Tour
Hidden London


Modern Buildings

The Shard - Designed by Renzo Piano, it will be the tallest building in the European Union. Still under construction but may be worth a look. Or hard to miss.

The Gherkin - Designed by Norman Foster and so nicknamed due to its pickle-like shape, it kind of looms over the Tower of London

2012 Olympics Site - Most of the stadiums are pretty far along; not sure how easy it is to check any of them out, but it seems you can take the Tube to the Stratford station and walk around. London Walks also has an Olympics Walk


Neighborhoods not yet mentioned

Chelsea - Once was bohemian and later swinging, now seems largely upscale. Kings Road was the epicenter of its fashion district and the Sex Pistols were formed at Malcolm McLaren's SEX shop at 430 Kings Rd., but it's long gone.

Notting Hill - I've never been here, but I did see the movie. The area is said to be affluent & fashionable, but where isn't?

Oxford St. / Carnaby St. - Oxford is one of London's major streets and Carnaby, a 3-block pedestrianed stretch in Soho, was once the center of Swinging London

Shopping

Harrods - Probably the most famous department store in London, with origins dating back to 1824

Savile Row - Famous for all its tailor shops. The Beatles' Let It Be rooftop concert took place atop 3 Savile Row.

Eating & Drinking

Pubs - There are supposedly over 7,000 pubs in London, offering a culture far different than typical American bars. Hanging out and chatting with locals in a pub should be part of any London visit. Here's a list of some of the more popular pubs.

Hard Rock Cafe - This was the chain's first location, now celebrating its 40th anniversary.

Indian Food - I don't remember too many thrilling meals in London, but know I got some great Indian food. Many options abound.

Gordon Ramsey - I've yet to splurge on a high-end meal in London, but hopefully will one day try one of the establishments of this popular TV chef

Etc. 

See Red - They may still seem somewhat ubiquitous and obvious, but be sure to acutely note the red double decker buses, phone booths and mail boxes, as these are things largely evaporating from London, and in basic essence, everywhere. Also enjoy the old style taxis.

OK, so this should probably provide a first-time visitor to London with abundant options of intriguing things to do, see and experience, though I imagine one could really do very little of this and still have a great time. Hopefully others who have enjoyed London as I have, or even more so, will weigh in with other tips and suggestions.

Have a great time, Wendy, and remember, Mind the Gap and (almost) always, Look Right.


---
In case anyone cares, I wrote a similar guide to San Francisco some months ago.