Discovering Japan: Recapping My Trip From August 13-30, 2019

Kinkaku-ji, Kyoto

The 15 full days—plus parts of 2 others—I recently spent in Japan represent the most time I’ve spent in a single country on a single trip.

And I would say that all of the days were well spent.

I wouldn’t necessarily nominate Japan as the favorite place I’ve been nor the first place tourists from the United States should venture, but this is essentially due to the many fantastic places I’ve been fortunate to visit.

This shouldn’t be construed as a ranking, but London, Paris, Italy, Spain, India and Peru are just some of the spots I don’t feel it wrong that I got to before going to Japan.

I’ve also been to Australia, Ireland, Israel, Cairo, Vienna, Prague, Budapest, Krakow, Brussels, St. Petersburg, Stockholm, Copenhagen, Helsinki, Amsterdam, Buenos Aires, Rio de Janeiro, various points in Mexico and Canada and many cities across the U.S., and have enjoyed pretty much everywhere I’ve been.

Now including Japan.

Senso-ji, Tokyo

I liked what I saw there. What I did. What I experienced. What I photographed. What I ate.

I might wish to have learned a bit more, about the culture, the people, the history and customs, but given the parameters of my trip—traveling solo, 3 weeks to allot at most, a somewhat limited budget, my age, physical shape, proclivities, etc.—I can’t say there is anything I would decidedly do differently.

A few days at a beach resort with a Japanese supermodel may have been nice, but what would be in it for her?

I tried to eat at the top-rated restaurant in the country—Den—but given the stringency in securing a reservation, I can’t say I would try any harder than I did.

Hiking a good ways up Mt. Fuji would likely be beautiful and spiritual, but my legs hurt each night just from traipsing around tourist sights in Tokyo and Kyoto.

Fans of anime or manga or martial arts or professional wrestling or sumo or karaoke may well have sought out spots that likely wouldn’t have meant much to me, and followers of Shinto, Buddhism and/or students of Japanese history undoubtedly would have had more holistic experiences at the numerous temples, shrines and pagodas I visited.

Feeding time, Nara

And while I managed to find sufficient food to eat each day, only once resorting to a Big Mac, others may well have had more delectable meals or delved deeper into Japanese cuisine.

So be it.

Because I had internet access everywhere I went—at no extra cost as part of my T-Mobile plan—I was able to post numerous iPhone photos to Facebook every day, from most of the attractions I visited.

In part due to this, and also because I found myself sufficiently knackered each night to rather sleep than write, I didn't post many recaps to this blog. But you can find pieces 1, 2 and 3 here. (In the past I've used my SethTheTourist.blogspot.com space for on-the-go posts, but didn't this time.)

And rather than recite what I did and saw on a daily basis, I think the following might be an efficient way to handle this travelogue. If you have any questions about specifics, please post a comment or contact me at setharkin@msn.com.

Shinjuku, Tokyo

Tokyo
Arrived: August 14
Departed: August 22
Returned: August 29-30

Hotels:
APA Hotel & Resort Nishi Shinjuku Gochome (8 nights), The B Hotel Roppongi (1 night)
Both of these and the hotel in Kyoto were booked on BookAAHotels.com and selected based on a combination of price, location and offers of American Airlines frequent flyer miles in return. The APA was well-located in relatively quiet Nishi Shinjuku, steps from a subway stop. The room was small but satisfactory; front desk staff more perfunctory than friendly or helpful. Whereas a front desk clerk at the B in Roppongi was proactive in helping to get me onto a shuttle bus to the airport.

Tokyo Subway

Areas visited:
Shinjuku, Nishi Shinjuku, Chiyoda, Asakusa, Akibahara, Shibuya, Ginza, Harajuku, Tsukiji, Jimbocho, Minato, Ueno, Sumida, Roppongi, Tokyo Midtown
I enjoyed exploring all these areas, including Harajuku, the epicenter of teenage Japanese culture and upscale Ginza. But Asakusa, home to the Senso-ji Temple, would be the area I'd most eagerly seek out on a subsequent trip. Visiting Senso-ji at night was a particular delight, including a walk afterward through what once was a theater district. 

Sights/attractions explored:
Imperial Palace East Gardens, Imperial Palace Guided Tour, Tokyo Tower, Zojoji Temple, Tsukiji Outer Fish Market, Kabuki-za Theatre, Senso-ji Temple & Pagoda, Nakamise Shopping Street, Meiju Jingu Shrine, Takeshita Street (Harajuku), Shibuya Crossing, Roppongi Hills, Shinjuku Gyoen Garden

Imperial Palace, Tokyo

A mix of shrines, gardens and bustling, modern districts like Shinjuku and Shibuya. In addition to Senso-Ji (as mentioned above), getting to the Tsukiji Market area was fun, though the actual fish market has moved elsewhere (vendors, shops and food stands remain). 

Museums visited:
National Museum of Western Art, Edo-Tokyo Museum
I probably should have done more in this regard. The National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo National Museum and sword, sumo and samurai museums were also on my shortlist. But I was happy with the two I visited, while considering the numerous shrines, temples, gardens outdoor museums of a sort. I enjoyed how the Western Art museum had a special exhibit covering its formation and initial collection, while Edo-Tokyo provided a good glimpse into Tokyo when it was long-known as Edo. 

Meiji Jingu Shrine, Tokyo

Restaurants:
Shiryu, Bocce, Suisen, Kizuna Sushi, Kaisendon, Tsukijiya, Meiju Jingu Café, Sekkaen, Marion Crepes, Harajuku Crepe Cafe, Suisen, Vie de France, Wadakura Fountain Park Restaurant, Peter Cole Irish Pub, Kani Doraku, Hard Rock Café, Ichiran Ramen, Yoshinoya
None of these would be considered high-end gastronomic splurges--as opposed to Den, which I couldn't get into--but all satisfied while enabling me to enjoy sushi, tempura, ramen, soba noodles, crab, Chinese food, Kobe beef, mochi, crepes, sake, a Japanese buffet and more. I mean no disrespect in saying that none of these demand being specifically sought out, though the crepes cafes were fun and the buffet at Wadakura Fountain Park Restaurant was worth being a bit pricey (3200 yen), especially given the nice location across from the Imperial Palace grounds. 

Show at Robot Restaurant, Tokyo

Live Events
Robot Restaurant Show, Yakult Swallows baseball game, Kabuki Theatre, The Parrots (Beatles band) at Abbey Road nightclub
The show at Robot Restaurant--the food service is really negligible--is crazy fun, something like the Japanese version of Medieval Times. On speed. Though some may find it sensory overload, as it's really loud with tons of flashing lights. I loved going to the baseball game, particularly at the venerable but fun Meiju Jingu Stadium (as opposed to the Tokyo Dome, home of the richer Yomiuri Giants; I didn't get there). I'm not sure which piece of theater I saw at Kabuki-za--I caught one-act of a larger production--and couldn't tell you exactly what happened in it. Still it was cool. Abbey Road and The Parrots were a delight, as they sang 4 sets of Beatles songs in English, though they spoke solely in Japanese. 

Great Buddha, Kamakura

Side Trips:
Kamakura (Great Buddha, Hasedera Temple)
I got to Kamakura on my own via trains (as opposed to a Mount Fuji bus tour) and enjoyed getting to and seeing the Great Buddha, and nearby Hasedera Temple was quite formidable. A small joint called Kamakura Dog had wonderfully elaborate corn dogs; mine with fried potatoes and cheese was so elaborate I barely noticed I got one without a hot dog. If I didn't tire myself out, I would've liked to have seen the Hachiman shrine and perhaps gotten to the beachfront. Overall, my plan just to stay in Tokyo and Kyoto and take day trips worked quite well, but Kamakura may have merited a bit more time. 

Mount Fuji from Lake Kawaguchi

Mount Fuji (5th Station, Cruise on Lake Kawaguchi)
I wasn't sure if I should try to get to Hakone on my own to try to see Mount Fuji or to sign up for a bus tour. Although I likely could've gotten to Hakone pretty easily by train from Tokyo, I wasn't clear where I might head from there, which prompted me to do some Googling. I found an $82 tour via a company called Veltra, which put me on a bus tour seemingly run by Shinki Bus Tours, though the sign I was to look for at the Shinjuku Center Building was "Limon," which also adorned the bus. The bus took me and about a dozen others to what's known as Mount Fuji's 5th Station, partway up the mountain. On the way, the overcast sky prevented any good views of the mountain, and even at 5th Station it was hard to see the peak, but at least I saw the mountain. We then went to what seemed to be a French-themed resort--La Ville de Gaspard et Lisa--which adjoins an amusement park. There we had lunch before going to Lake Kawaguchi, first to ride up a hillside in a ropeway car, then to take a 20-minute cruise. On the cruise, I finally got a decent glimpse of the famous Mount Fuji. 

Takeshita Dori, Harajuku, Tokyo

Other Places of note:
Tower Records, Garrett’s Popcorn, McDonald’s, 7/11, Shinjuku Station, Tokyo Station, subway
I used to love perusing and shopping at Tower Records in Chicago (and Los Angeles, London and more), but the chain went out of business several years ago. But it survives as a separate company in Tokyo, although with the familiar red and yellow iconography. I went to a store in Shinjuku, and saw the exterior of an even larger one in Shibuya...It seems Chicago-based Garrett's has expanded far & wide over the years, but it was still nifty to see a store in Harajuku, where I sample Matcha-flavored caramel corn (and didn't love it)...McDonald's was fairly ubiquitous in both Tokyo and Kyoto, but didn't have Quarter Pounders with Cheese (or anything equivalent)...I don't think it would be an exaggeration to say that 7/11 is the most prevalent store in both Tokyo and Kyoto, though there are also several similar Lawson convenience stores...The commuter train stations, of which Shinjuku is supposedly the world's largest, were an attraction in themselves and crazily mobbed. But I used them often, and the subways stations even more so. 

Additional comments:
I enjoyed Tokyo, especially the dichotomy of old and new. With its criss-crossing subway lines, it reminded me of London, Paris and New York, and the challenge of exploring it was much of the fun. 

Pontocho, Kyoto

Kyoto
Arrived: August 22;
Departed August 29

Hotel:
Hotel M’s Plus Shijo Omiya
Right near train and subway stations and major bus lines, the hotel proved quite convenient. And the women working at the front desk were much friendlier than those I had encountered at the APA Hotel in Tokyo. Though it took four clerks to help me buy a baseball ticket from a mobile website that was solely in Japanese, it was cool that they took the time to help accomplish this. Unfortunately, the game--a rare one to be played in Kyoto by the Orix Buffaloes, who mainly play in Osaka--was rained out. 

Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, Kyoto

Areas visited:
Gion; see sights visited
Although with approximately 1.5 million residents, Kyoto can be considered a big city, this is only about 1/10 the size of Tokyo. As such, it seemed like the "areas"--at least for a tourist--corresponded more explicitly with specific sights. Except perhaps for Gion, which I didn't get to explore as much as I would've liked because it rained the three times I went there. It has many old-style Japanese tea houses or buildings that look as such, and is famed as geisha district. 

Sights visited:
Kinkaku-ji Temple, Ginkaku-ji Temple, Tenryuji Temple & Gardens, Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, Togetsu Bridge, Iwatayamu Monkey Park, Fushimi Inari Shrine, Yasaka Shrine, Nishiki Market, Pontocho Alley, Hanamikoji Dori, Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Pagoda & grounds, Sanjusangendo
Many of the major sights I saw--Kinkaku (the gorgeous golden temple), Ginkaku (meaning Silver Temple, though it actually isn't silver), Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, Fushimi Inari (orange Torii gates up a mountain), Kiyomizu-dera--had what I would term touristy (though still quaintly Japanese) shopping districts serving somewhat as gauntlets before you get to the actual attraction. But these sights in particular, along with the hundreds of golden statues at Sanjusangendo, were truly spectacular.

Samurai & Ninja Museum, Kyoto

Museums Visited:
Samurai & Ninja Museum
This is a small museum on the upper floors of a space within the Teramachi-dori covered shopping district, and clearly appealing to tourists. But I enjoyed it, as English-speaking guides gave a nice explanation and I got to throw stars (ninja weapons) and put on a shogun outfit and wield a sword. 

Restaurants:
Train station sushi box, Café Bear, Donguri, Way to Emue, Gyugyu, JIki Miyazawa, Trattoria Sette (Hyatt)
The sushi box isn't a restaurant; it's a box with maki in it, but I was impressed by how well packaged it was. Donguri introduced me to okonomiyaki (Japanese pancakes with various stuffing or toppings), while Jiki Miyazawa is a traditional kaiseki restaurant with numerous courses created and served by the chef. I went there for lunch and had the lower of two price-tier menus, but still enjoyed it very much. 

Dotonbori Canal, Osaka

Side Trips:
Osaka (Umeda Sky Building + observatory, Osaka Castle, Dotonbori, Ganko (sushi), River Cruise)
An easy hourlong train ride from adjoining Kyoto, Osaka proved a cool place to explore. Though it isn't all that tall or new, the Umeda building felt really modern and has a nice observatory. Osaka Castle was rebuilt in 1931 and though the exterior is extraordinarily lovely, the inside is that of a modern museum. Worth a look but not all that exhilarating. Per a travel blogger's suggestion with high praise, I went to the nightlife area of Dotonburi seeking a ramen restaurant called Hanamaruken Namba Houzenji. I found it...closed. A couple doors down, Ganko seemed inviting as a large sushi restaurant in a basement space, and I enjoyed the food I had. I then went wandering to the Dotonbori Canal that gives the district its name, and was beguiled by a boat cruise led by a guide leading cheers. It only lasted 20 minutes but stands as one of the more overtly enjoyable moments on the whole trip. 

Todai-ji, Nara

Nara (Mister Donut, Kofuku-ji temple, Nara Park, deer walking all around, Todai-ji w/ Buddha, Totogin sushi-go-round)
Similarly, in terms of overtly enjoyable experiences, I don't think anything I did quite topped the few hours I spent in Nara. Kofuku-ji had a beautiful temple, pagoda and other structures, while the grounds, main shrine and giant Buddha housed within Todai-ji were all splendiferous. But adding to the merriment were deer. Hundreds, perhaps thousands, of freely roaming docile deer that you could pet, photograph and--in buying deer cookies--feed. I just loved it. And I was also delighted to dine at a sushi-go-round restaurant. 

Summation

How does one measure or evaluate a trip or destination? By how much fun was had? By the memories or photographs? By some intangible vibe?

It has now been more than a month since I returned home from Japan, and a few weeks since I began writing this recap. Some of the exact experiences are slowly starting to fade, and while I think some of the sights/photographs displayed here are rather spectacular, none is as singular as the Taj Mahal or Machu Picchu or even Chichen Itza in Mexico, which I visited in April.

But, as I mentioned above, there is nothing I wish I had done differently. That bespeaks a great trip, and great experiences.

And while some additional interpersonal interactions may have been nice, to complement all the sights seen and places visited, there were some rather rewarding moments in this regard as well.

As I chronicled in this blog post, at a rather (but enjoyably) nondescript restaurant in Tokyo, a young waitress not only engaged me in some nice casual conversation, she wound up pulling out her laptop computer to show me a PowerPoint presentation she'd put together about sights she recommended a friend see in the city.

At the Yakult Swallows baseball game I went to in Tokyo, I carried on a great conversation throughout with a Japanese fan who spoke fine English, and even wound up friending him on Facebook.

While taking a tour of Tokyo's Imperial Palace, I met and befriended an American couple who were, like me, from Chicago's northern suburbs, though they now live in Florida. We would then meet for dinner in Kyoto.

Particularly in Kyoto, the hotel clerks were quite friendly and there and at the B Roppongi in Tokyo, their willingness to help with some logistics added considerably to my trip.

While feeding deer in Nara, I noticed some people photographing and filming it, and asked two if they might email the pix and video. Both did.

And from the guide on the tour to Mt. Fuji to the river cruise leader in Osaka to multiple guides & assistants at the Samurai & Ninja Museum in Kyoto to the staff at most restaurants I visited, I really did have several pleasant encounters with the Japanese people.

So, however one might measure it, going to Japan was a really great trip.

Shuffling Off to Buffalo for a Fun "Wraparound" Excursion -- A Travelogue

Trip Recap / Travel Guide

Buffalo, New York
Niagara Falls, Ontario
Visited May 8-11, 2019

Although nearby Niagara Falls still seems to successfully attract travelers from near and far--and I did visit for a day and overnight--visual evidence did not suggest Buffalo to be much of a tourist mecca.

During the days and into the evenings, the city's downtown streets were eerily quiet--nearly desolate--and with apologies to many restaurants I didn't visit and some that I did, Tim Hortons was demonstrably the food emporium that most beguiled me. (We do not have any Tim Hortons "bake shop" locations near Chicago; I should also note that a lifelong allergy to poultry meant that I didn't seek out Buffalo Wings.)

Although I enjoyed my trip to Buffalo and Niagara Falls--and have long enjoyed exploring gritty, not-overtly-touristy American cities such as Pittsburgh, Cleveland, Columbus, Dayton, Detroit, Kansas City, St. Louis, Grand Rapids, Milwaukee, Louisville, etc.--I'd hard-pressed to tell you Buffalo makes for a beautiful visit.

But in the right context, turning oneself onto "The City of Light" can be quite satisfying.

Being there without a car--I flew in on a Wednesday and home on a Saturday--meant I didn't much explore places that public transportation (NFTA, which worked well) or an economical Uber could easily get me to and from.

Hence, I saw just the edges of the Frederick Law Olmsted-designed Delaware Park, and not the
adjoining and said-to-be-beautiful Forest Lawn Cemetery or Buffalo Zoo, only briefly and externally the Richardson Olmsted Campus--featuring a rather striking former sanitarium--and never Canalside and its old Navy battleships along the Buffalo River near Lake Erie.

I also noted some glorious architecture downtown and around Buffalo, and Niagara Falls is one of the most majestic sights on Earth, so I don't mean to imply that there isn't any striking scenery, more that you need to look for it.

And while there aren't a ton of "A+" travel guide attractions, I found that Buffalo worked quite well as a "wraparound destination."

As is the case for most of my domestic travel, my impetus for going to Buffalo at the time I did was a spectator event.

One of my favorite rock bands of all-time--The Who--played the city's KeyBank Arena early on their current Moving On Tour (accompanied by an orchestra) and though I would also wind up seeing them closer to home, I thought this would make a good jumping off point for visiting Buffalo.

I'd been to--or more accurately, through--the northern New York city twice before, in 1993 and 1999, having visited Niagara Falls both times, but had never before spent any significant time exploring Buffalo.

This time, I would also wind up seeing a musician I never had--Bruce Cockburn--and the city seems to regularly draw great concert acts at venues large and small. Cockburn played Asbury Hall at Babeville, which is in a converted church whose rebirth was overseen by Buffalo native, singer Ani DiFranco.

If you're a rock music lover like me, search the Pollstar.com website to see who's playing where and when--not just in Buffalo--while the city also appears to have a rather vibrant theater scene of local & touring shows. (See BuffaloTheatreGuide.com as well as the Buffalo News' guide to what's playing.)

Sports fans should already know that Buffalo is home to the NFL's Bills--who play at New Era Field in the suburb of Orchard Park--and the NHL's Sabres, primary tenant of the KeyBank Center.

Neither of those teams will be suiting up again for a few months, but minor league baseball's Buffalo Bisons are the AAA-affiliate of the Toronto Blue Jays and play in Sahlen Field downtown, which looked pretty cool from the outside. (The team's origins date back to 1877.)

Throw in the venerable Buffalo Philharmonic Orchestra, which plays at historic Kleinhans Music Hall, and you should readily be able to find some kind of live event to stimulate you to shuffle off to Buffalo.

Many will imaginably wish to seek out Buffalo Wings--said to be invented at the still-existing Anchor Bar in 1964--while those with a sweet tooth (and a car, as I didn't get there) may want to check out Parkside Candy, which has stood since 1927.

But beyond the impetus of The Who, my reasons for wanting to visit Buffalo were essentially three-fold.

I primarily wanted to see the Albright-Knox Art Gallery, the Darwin D. Martin House by Frank Lloyd Wright--and also, if time allowed, which it did, Graycliff, another FLW house--and Niagara Falls.

A bit curiously, in 2015, I had learned about the existence and fine collection of the Albright-Knox Gallery--Buffalo's major art museum--during a visit to the Milwaukee Art Museum.

Though the MAM has a fine permanent collection in its own right, it was hosting an exhibition titled Van Gogh to Pollock: Modern Rebels Masterworks from the Albright-Knox Art Gallery, which you can read about here.

Impressed by the strength of the traveling highlights, I was assured at the time that the Albright-Knox wasn't temporarily shuttered and maintained a strong collection beyond what it had let go for the show.

I've been to over 150 art museums worldwide and always like to take note of others I should visit, and the Albright-Knox instantly put itself on such a list.

After flying into Buffalo Wednesday morning and catching the NFTA #24 bus from Buffalo Niagara International Airport to my Hotel @ the Lafayette by Wyndham downtown--the ride along Genessee Street exposed me to some hardscrabble sections of the city, but I appreciated that--the first place I went after check-in and a brief stop at Tim Hortons was Albright-Knox (via bus #20).

Any chance to see great art is a life-enhancing joy, and I would unequivocally recommend that anyone visiting Buffalo stop by the Albright-Knox, but I can't say I was substantially more wowed by their collection than from the introduction in Milwaukee.

There were certainly some fine pieces I hadn't seen in that exhibition, but again a bit oddly, the best were paintings borrowed from the stellar Detroit Institute of the Arts, which I've visited multiple times. In Buffalo, these were part of an exhibition called Humble and Human: An Exhibition in Honor of Ralph C. Wilson, Jr.

Wilson, who passed in 2014 at age 95, was the longtime owner of the Buffalo Bills, and a native of Detroit who maintained his primary residence in that area. So the exhibit, which closed on May 26, honored him with paintings from both the Albright-Knox and DIA, including a great Van Gogh portrait.

Supposedly, Wilson had a rather valuable art collection and it would make sense for him to have been a benefactor of Albright-Knox, but I didn't note any of the paintings in the exhibit having been donated by him.

Still there was some great stuff, within the exhibition and beyond, though primarily in a modern art realm. And that which I had seen before.

Nevertheless, I'm glad I got to the Albright-Knox Art Gallery, enjoyed my visit and am happy to note the museum will soon undergo a major expansion.

After visiting the museum, I strolled just a short ways into Delaware Park, but noted its beauty and took some photos of a replica of Michelangelo's David, albeit from afar.

I did not have time, on Wednesday or otherwise, to visit the nearby Burchfield Penney Art Center--which features the works of Buffalo's Charles E. Burchfield, known for his watercolors.

Also in the area but beyond my purview is the Buffalo History Museum, and while my Uber driver kindly took me past the Richardson Olmsted Campus to take a few quick pix, I'm sorry I didn't have time for a stroll nor tour.

Connected to the Hotel @ the Lafayette--said to be one of the country's grandest once upon a time, but now more solid than spectacular--was the Lafayette Brewing Company.

I didn't try their beer, nor as explained above, any Buffalo wings, but enjoyed their Beef on Weck sliders.

This sandwich is also something of a Buffalo tradition, featuring roast beef on a kummelweck roll, which is topped with kosher salt and caraway seed and accompanied by horseradish and au jus.

Right up my alley, and I enjoyed it enough to eat at Lafayette Brewing again the next night, when I had a Strawberry Salad.

Although I really only knew his name, and vague plaudits, I went to see Bruce Cockburn on Wednesday evening and very much enjoyed him and the Babeville venue. (See my review of the show here.)

Besides the Albright-Knox, the main thing I wanted to see in Buffalo itself was the Darwin D. Martin House, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright and completed in 1905. (website)
 

I'm a huge admirer of Wright's work, and have seen dozens of his homes from the outside, and taken tours of at least 30 houses and buildings that are (or were) open to the public.

The Martin House--created for an executive of Buffalo's Larkin Company--is said to be one of FLW's greatest creations, and my 2-hour tour included the Barton House on the same lot, a conservatory connected by a long pergola and a gardener's cottage.

Photos were not allowed within the houses, but the main home in particular is spectacular, and I very much valued my visit.

There was landscaping work going on, but I learned this was the last part of a years-long renovation project.

Fairly close to the Martin House Complex are two privately-owned Wright-designed houses, not open to the public. I saw the exterior of the Walter Davidson House but not the William R. Heath House.

Frank Lloyd Wright's first architectural employer, Louis Sullivan, is also represented in Buffalo with the striking red Guaranty Building downtown.

I'll include a photo at the bottom of this post, as well as one of the interior of Buffalo City Hall--seen at the very top of this article--which is one of most beautiful examples of Art Deco I've ever seen.

It was designed by John Wade and George Dietel and completed in 1931.

Other grand buildings in downtown Buffalo include the Erie County Clerk, St. Joseph Cathedral & Rectory, Buffalo Savings Bank (now a branch of M&T Bank) and The Electric Tower.

Thanks to the NFTA's #40 bus, running out of Buffalo's Metropolitan Transportation Center just around the corner from my hotel, getting to Niagara Falls took only $2.00 and about an hour.

The bus dropped me off at a Welcome Center on the USA side--I had booked a Howard Johnson's on the Canadian side--but though the weather was a bit cool and my backpack a tad heavier than idyllic, I valued my walk though the Niagara Falls State Park to and across the Rainbow International Bridge.

When I was there, on May 10-11, the iconic Maid of the Mist boat ride through the Falls from the U.S. side wasn't yet open for the season, but is now until early November (I've been on it previously).

But the state park offers a nice vista to see the American Falls close up, while once you cross the bridge to Canada, the view of both the American Falls and the Horseshoe Falls is majestic. (It is possible to stroll further on the U.S. side than I did.)

On the Ontario side, I did go into the Hard Rock Cafe, noted the Casino Niagara and eventually walked through the gauntlet of kitschy attractions on Clifton Hills (such as Ripley's Believe It or Not and a few wax museums).

But particularly with limited time, the best thing to do in Niagara Falls is to see--and appreciate--the waterfalls, and I took a long walk alongside the closest guardrail (from Rainbow Bridge to Table Rock Welcome Center), taking thousands of photos along the way.

For those far more intrepid than me, a Zipline seemed like it could be rather fun, and--particularly with no boats running--at Table Rock I did pay to visit the Journey Under the Falls, which provides an up-close glimpse of the Falls to really fathom their power (literally and figurative, in terms of the hydro-electricity).

After eventually making my way to my hotel, I ate at AG, one of just three restaurants in Niagara Falls that AAA rates 4-diamonds (there are no 5-diamond places).

I had an excellent 3-course meal including Charred Octopus Salad, Beef Tenderloin and a Sea Salt Toffee Crème Brûlée.

It was terrific and satisfying, if not quite as exquisite (or expensive) as past gourmet splurges.

Though I was sleepy, leg weary and somehow developed substantial pain in my right heel, I was convinced by the Howard Johnson's desk clerks that seeing the Falls lit up at night was worth the effort.

Heading down Clifton Hill, I decided to ride the SkyWheel, a giant Ferris Wheel with enclosed cars allowing for good views of the falls.

Unfortunately, once aboard, I had a scare with my digital SLR having a memory card error, but I made do with my iPhone.

The set-up wasn't that good for photography anyway, but it was still a nice ride. And the camera issue seemed to resolve itself post-trip, without losing any files.

I also walked to the edge of the falls at night, and again the next morning, which was much sunnier than the day before.

The #40 bus got me back to downtown Buffalo before Noon, with several hours before my evening flight home.

So although it wasn't cheap, I decided to take an Uber to the Graycliffe Estate, another Frank Lloyd Wright designed house about 25 minutes down the Lake Erie coast. (Buffalo doesn't have an Uber Pool option, though if it weren't the weekend, a NFTA bus could've gotten me close to Graycliff.)

Also designed for Darwin D. Martin about 25 years later, at a point when FLW was down on his luck and even wanted by the law, the 1928 house provided an intriguing contrast.

Wright trademarks like vast, sunlit interior spaces, earth-tone coloration and cantilevered overhangs were present, but there were no art glass windows and the front door was neither hidden nor ornate.

There are actually three separate structures on the property, but the main house was designed so that one could see through to the lake.

The house required a massive--and per some observers, impossible--restoration project in recent years.

So it was particularly cool that my tour happened to be led by architect Pat Mahoney, who was a principal member of the restoration team. I really enjoyed the insights he provided.

Sadly, one of Frank Lloyd Wright's most notable non-residential works, the Larkin Administration Building--of the company that employed Darwin D. Martin--only survived in Buffalo from 1906 to 1950. (A couple minor wall remnants still stand, but I didn't see them.)

Nonetheless, it was wonderful to be able to tour two related yet distinct homes designed by America's greatest architect.

All in all, it was a really enjoyable few days in Buffalo and Niagara Falls.

This probably isn't the best-written travelogue, as I flirted with writing it as a personal travel recap and also as a more universal travel guide, and thus the tone may be imprecise in both regards.

But other than perhaps seeing the old navy ships docked at Canalside, catching shows that weren't in town when I was or eating Buffalo Wings, I can't think of much to recommend that I didn't myself do.

Though I guess on another visit, I'd explore the local history a bit more. 

It may not be the greatest place on Earth, and certainly not the most glamorous, but I truly enjoyed my time in Buffalo--including a brief jaunt to Niagara Falls--and with a somewhat similar "wraparound" itinerary, so might you.

---

All photos by Seth Arkin, copyright 2019. Please do not repost without permission and attribution.

From Me to Yucatan: Recapping a Trip to Playa del Carmen with Excursions to Chichen Itza, Tulum and Cozumel

Vacation Review

Playa del Carmen, Yucatan, Mexico
Hotel Riu Palace Riviera Maya
All-Inclusive Resort
Day excursions to Chichen Itza, Tulum and Cozumel
March 31-April 4, 2019
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Yes, it seems somewhat odd to award a rating to a vacation--on the Seth Saith scale of @@@@@--like I do with concerts, theater and other performances.

But while I will cite some things that didn't thrill me about this trip--and probably devote considerable word space to the negatives--I want to make it clear that I enjoyed myself far more than not.

Sure, it isn't coincidental that it has taken until age 50, with numerous adventures near and far under my belt, for me to go on a trip based around the beach, a resort and/or a cruise.

It sounds silly to say, but relaxing on vacation just isn't my thing.

No slight to those who prefer such trips--and I can now more acutely see the appeal--but I tend to venture alone as I do not have a romantic partner, nor any close friends with whom I regularly travel.

I barely drink and don't dance or club. I can't swim and don't partake in much physical recreation, in or out of the water. Given the choice of hanging out by a pool or visiting a stellar art museum, I will opt for the latter almost always.

But even though the resort part of this trip to Playa del Carmen was really only a means for getting to visit Mayan ruins in Chichen Itza and Tulum--and there were hiccups in both aspects--I can't deny that it was quite pleasurable in most regards.

After a long stretch--i.e. winter--of cold and crummy Chicago weather, the warmth, sunshine and scenery offered by Playa del Carmen and the Hotel Riu Palace Riviera Maya were wonderful.

Each of the five days of my trip, I did lie out by the pool and go in the water, and a couple times went onto the beach and--very minorly--into the Atlantic. (There was a ton of seaweed in the water and on the beach, so even if I were a swimmer, I'd have largely abstained.)

I got a sun tan, drank a few strawberry daquiris and enjoyed having all my meals--sans one off-site splurge I'll detail below--included in the lump-sum vacation package price offered through Travelocity.

Including round-trip flights to/from Chicago's O'Hare airport, this was about $1,200--and would've been an even better deal if I drank a whole lot more.

As it was, I found it to be rather fair and worthwhile.

Before booking the trip, having heard about Playa del Carmen's Quinta Avenida--"5th Avenue"--being a fun if touristy shopping street, I was looking at staying at either the Hilton or Grand Hyatt that virtually abutted the strip while also offering beachfront access.

But these two noted brands were a bit pricey and in learning that my barbers--a husband and wife couple--had visited Playa del Carmen multiple times, I took their advice to stay in a Riu property in the Playacar district, about a 5-minute cab ride south of the main part of Playa del Carmen.

They actually recommended the Riu Palace Mexico, a few blocks from the Riu Palace Riviera Maya--and amid the Riu Tequila, Riu Yucatan, Riu Playacar and Riu Lupita--but even as it is soon to undergo renovations, the Riu Palace Riviera Maya seemed to be the nicest of these.

And especially for about $500 less than the Hilton or Hyatt, for an all-inclusive stay, it seemed--as my barbers noted--to make sense not to be so close to the noise and hubbub of Quinta Avenida if I didn't intend to partake in the nightlife.

With a few qualms I'll enunciate, I think the Riu Palace Riviera Maya was a good choice, and gave it @@@@ (out of 5) in this review on TripAdvisor.

With a security checkpoint for any cars coming into the Playacar district, the hotel felt very safe, and I didn't mind it being away from town.

Even if I didn't use the beach much, I liked that the resort had its own beachfront access with lounge chairs attended by its wait staff.

The exterior appearance of the hotel, with its multiple pools and tons of palm trees, was gorgeous, and the lobby rather splendid.

The main restaurant--the Don Manolo buffet open for breakfast, lunch and dinner--had generous offerings, if a bit starch-heavy like most buffets, and I found the specialty restaurants to provide decent if not quite spectacular dinners.

These included a Brazilian churrascaria--the cuts of meat weren't as good or diverse as at Fogo de Chao, but were sufficient--a Japanese restaurant I enjoyed and Agave, featuring Mexican food.

There is also a poolside restaurant called Chili's--not the chain--where I ate after arrival after 3:00pm on Sunday, plus a fusion specialty restaurant, a sports bar and free room service.

After days in the sun or large breakfast and/or lunch buffets, my dinners at the hotel were typically a bit on the lighter side, but I think @@@@ (out of 5) is a fair assessment of the food offerings at the Hotel Riu Palace Riviera Maya. (As a guest there, I was welcome to visit any other Riu property for lunch, but never bothered.)

Because I was a bit knackered on my first evening, and had early-departing day tours on Tuesday and Wednesday, I only caught the Riu's featured entertainment offering on Wednesday evening.

This was a circus/magic show, which had some talented performers, but wasn't so amazing overall.

But I really liked that each night, live musicians performed upon a central gazebo a bit earlier in the evening, with jazz, mariachi and more.

I stayed in a Junior Suite, the smallest room size, but it was sizable enough and generally comfortable.

The pool area and pools themselves were fantastic, with points for lounge chairs that never threatened to tip as I maneuvered to get my fat ass out of them.

And for the most part, the staff of the Riu Palace Riviera Maya was delightful, with almost everyone offering a pleasant greeting every time they passed. A bellman/greeter named Paulinho was particularly cool.

But the front desk staff didn't offer much warmth, and their failure to seamlessly resolve a few small issues made this "relaxing stay" not perfectly so.

After my arrival from Cancun International Airport--via a pre-arranged shared Local Expert van--upon check-in a bellman let me into my room. But after changing into shorts and putting on flip-flops, I found that the key cards I was given did not in fact work.

Trudging back to the lobby as the flip-flops hurt my feet--I don't wear them often--I got another set of keys that also didn't work, and had to trundle back once again.

A staff member then joined me at my room and, after about 20 minutes, fixed the faulty lock.

Though this too is relatively ticky-tack, it bothered me that the power outlet next to my bed--where I would intend to charge my phone and have it next to me as I went to sleep & awoke--was extremely loose in terms of holding the plug prongs.

I told the front desk about this and a maintenance man attempted to fix it, but didn't. Fortunately I was able to live with it, but didn't like going to bed unsure if my phone and camera batteries would charge through the night.

At the Don Manolo buffet one day, a cheeseburger patty looked good, but there were no buns anywhere nearby. And it took two requests, two people and 20 minutes to get one.

Given that on Wednesday, I had to catch a tour bus to Chichen Itza at 5:00am, I requested a 4:15am wake-up call.

It never came.

Fortunately I had planned on this, and used my phone alarms.

In the whole scheme of things, well-beyond this particular hotel stay, these are rather piddly problems. But I did pay over $200 per night, and think it fair to note ways in which the Hotel Riu Palace Riviera Maya fell short of my expectations. And, IMHO, didn't work to resolve them with much kindness or chutzpah.

Beyond the resort, things were a similarly mixed bag. Absolutely astonishing in some ways; somewhat disappointing in others.

Monday, after a buffet breakfast, I took a cab to the main drag of Playa del Carmen, beginning at an outdoor shopping center near Quinta Avenida, and starting to stroll from there.

With Starbucks, Old Navy, Nike, Sunglass Hut, etc., etc., it didn't exactly feel authentically Mexican and past every smaller shop, I was cajoled to come on in.

So, much sooner than what I expected would be a good bit later, I opted to take a ferry to Cozumel at Noon.

It's only about a 30-minute ride and beyond enjoying being outside on a boat on a warm day--fortunately I didn't get seasick like the woman next to me--it made me flash back to going whale watching from Boston last August. I like how travels can connect in my memory like that.

I really don't know what I was intending to explore in Cozumel, which had 4 cruise ships docked and seemed to largely offer touristy shops like I had left in Playa del Carmen.

But I had heard that the coral reefs off Cozumel were spectacular, and though unable to see them as a scuba diver, snorkeler or swimmer, I was easily cajoled to buy a ticket on a glass bottom boat (as I had done likewise at Australia's Great Barrier Reef years ago).

I knew other tourists would be on the boat, but what I didn't realize was that everyone except one would go snorkeling with the tour leader.

And that though I did see some beautiful blue sea and some coral and fish I wouldn't have otherwise, the dirty glass bottom was pretty disappointing for viewing and photography.

I also didn't realize--and was assured otherwise by the ticket seller--that the small boat would be so topsy-turvy, and that I would get largely soaked.

Not a disaster, but it was 2 hours on a boat ride that was mainly for snorkeling and really only worth about 30 minutes of my time and a good deal less than the $30 I paid. I was going to complain to the ticket sellers afterwards, but couldn't find them.

After the boat ride, which followed a boat ride, I spent a few minutes going to a Hard Rock Cafe that was only a souvenir store--and over-priced bar; a 7-UP was $6 so I passed--then walked around the main tourist square a bit and got back on a boat to return to Playa del Carmen.

Giving credit to an enterprising local who recognized that a fat, white, solo American traveler was a prime candidate for a customer, I agreed to let him take me on a bike taxi from the ferry dock down a good stretch of Quinta Avenida.

Feeling somewhat sheepish and somewhat like royalty--perhaps penny "royal tea"--I didn't notice any stores, restaurants or bars I wanted to peruse or patronize, but did appreciate it being a popular pedestrian pathway (for most).

I got out near the Hilton but only saw its sign, before buying some souvenirs and catching a car taxi back to the Riu Palace, where I would eat dinner at the Japanese restaurant.

Though I could have booked my day tours at the hotel, given that Chichen Itza was the impetus for this trip, I booked a tour ahead of time through Viator, a website I've frequently used with satisfaction.

Viator, which is now part of TripAdvisor, doesn't run tours, or at least most of them. So the tour I booked--which was to take me to Chichen Itza on Tuesday and Tulum on Wednesday (as two separate outings from Playa del Carmen--was with an outfit called Amigo Tours, with whom I had gone to Teotihuacan from Mexico City in 2015.

For under $79, the two-day combo tour seemed like a really good deal, as seemingly comparable tours offered from the hotel to Chichen Itza were just $119.

But, planning to be picked up for Chichen Itza by 5:00am on Tuesday, on Monday I had an email from Viator/Amigo informing me that my Wednesday trip to Tulum had been canceled for unexplained reasons..

Fortunately, I was able to get in touch and--still really not knowing what the Wednesday problem was, and scheduled to fly home Thursday--was able to flip the days.

But this minor problem made me nervous about more substantive ones with Amigo, especially when the van that was to pick me up for Tulum at 7:00am didn't show up...until 7:15am and two phone calls later.

I also didn't realize the van that picked me up would take me to a larger tour bus, with far more passengers and the tour guide. (Not that this was a problem.)

Let me say here that I went on the tour to Tulum, and likewise Chichen Itza, wanting to learn some of the Mayan history.

And I realize a tour will be a balance between being shown the sights and simply hearing the history, and each person on the tour may wish for this to be calibrated a bit differently.

On Tuesday in Tulum, my Amigo Tours guide--a knowledgeable and professional man of Mayan descent going by the nickname of Cat--gave an informative tour, complete with several pictures & graphics he brought along.

And though it was early in the day, perhaps he was cognizant of the sun and rising heat. But, with the first half-hour at Tulum spent standing in one spot listening to him, I didn't feel he showed us around enough.

Especially as I was admittedly there primarily for the photography.

While I did wind up getting most of the shots I wanted, with some free time as the end, for me it was a good but not great tour.

What remains of the Mayan seaside city is striking, and I appreciated the insights Cat provided, but I just wish I had a bit more time to wander freely at Tulum.

Both the amazing sights I did see and photograph, and the disappointment over what I didn't, were even more pronounced the next day, at Chichen Itza.

Even without my requested wake-up call being handled by the Riu staff, I was up in plenty of time to catch the van at 5:00am, which--as with the Tulum tour--took me to a more populated tour bus. Fortunately, the van was on time and there was no confusion or worry.

I think it took us about 2-1/2 hours to reach Chichen Itza, allowing for some sleep along the way, yet getting us there early enough to be among the first two groups on the sacred grounds.

Our guide on this day, Frank--also a man of Mayan descent--was, like Cat the day before, informative and professional, but not particularly friendly or perceptive to the varying whims of the tour members.

And while I would have like to have said to him that while I was looking forward to listening to his explanations, I was admittedly there for photography and might occasional wander as such, his continuous narrative never provided me the chance.

So while I'll forever be thankful that I got to see Chichen Itza--and its glorious pyramid, El Castillo--on a beautiful day, initially without any crowds, I'm genuinely chagrined that Frank never led the group to, or suggested that I go see, a secondary but also monumental part of the grounds.

Certainly, I won't absolve myself, as at any point I was at liberty to ditch Frank and the tour--and honestly, in the moment, was oblivious to wanting to see the the El Caracol observatory, Las Monjas complex and more, though I had read about them--but I really did want to hear about the Mayan history and not be rude.

I don't know if companies such as Amigo Tours are limited to a certain amount of time on site per tour, of if the low cost of my 2-day tour factored in.

But after initially giving us 10 minutes to photograph El Castillo and whatever else we could see, Frank organized us back and led a 2-hour tour, saying we would have an hour on our own. But that was an hour including a 15-minute walk back to the tour bus.

I loved what I did see--including the Temple of the Warriors (though simply from the front; I would've valued more time here) and the Great Ball Court, where losing players were beheaded back in the day--so can't complain about where Frank did take us and the history he shared.

But if you click the El Caracol and Las Monjas links above to images on the Wikipedia entry for Chichen Itza, you should see that I missed some really great stuff (especially as a photography nut who likes to publish calendars from my trips).

Again, I'm largely to blame, as A) I was delighted with my time at Chichen Itza in the moment and not consciously aware of what I wasn't seeing; and B) I used my free 45 minutes to walk 15 minutes to see a Cenote (water hole) and buy some souvenirs from the gauntlet merchants, making it back to the bus with just 2 minutes to spare.

But I feel like I should've been told about these adjoining sights--it would've been a 5-10 minute walk through a clearing--and, if not taken on the tour, provided an extra half-hour to see them.

Now, although I was there just a week ago, I feel like I need to plan another trip to Chichen Itza and see it on my own timetable.

To be clear, while disappointed, I am neither distraught nor irate. I often say about traveling, enjoy what you see and don't rue what you don't.

And I'll have to follow my advice, especially as in the moment, my visit to Chichen Itza was wonderful. (It wasn't until later that evening that it dawned on me that I missed seeing the observatory.)

It's just a bit of a shame. (Hence, this review on TripAdvisor and this on Viator.)

Especially as I was back at my hotel by 3:00 and after getting some dessert from the lunch buffet, taking a nap and hanging by the pool, I still had plenty of time to kill before my 8:00pm dinner reservation, which required a 20-minute cab ride.

Now, it might seem like dinner after visiting Chichen Itza would be an afterthought, but not only had I planned for it to come after visiting Tulum--a much closer trip from/to Playa del Carmen--it was actually one of the highlights of my trip.

I don't truly consider myself a foodie, but when within reason, I like to try restaurants that are considered exquisite, including years ago Charlie Trotter's and Alinea in Chicago, and numerous notable places in New York City: Le Bernadin, Aureole, The Four Seasons, Nobu, Le Cirque, Jean-Georges, Cosme.

Understanding it isn't gospel, I like to reference the World's 50 Best Restaurants annual rankings, and in recent years it's helped me visit Pujol in Mexico City and both Maido and Astrid y Gaston in Lima, Peru.

Playa del Carmen is not represented on this list, even as it extends to a Top 100, but the rarefied list of AAA 5-diamond rated restaurants is another point of reference I respect. (Before I seem too snooty, let me say that I love McDonald's, hot dog stands, taco joints, etc., but respect the culinary arts as an creative pursuit I occasionally like to taste. )

Passion by Martin Berasategui is one of just two restaurants in PdC to receive 5 Diamonds--Cocina de Autor is the other--and is located in another all-inclusive resort, the Paradisus, which I believe does not include it in its all-inclusions.

So I had made a reservation there for 8pm on Wednesday, but was accommodated when I arrived a bit past 7:00pm (I didn't see much of Paradisus, which seemed more elegant than the Riu Palace Riviera Maya but didn't make me envious.)

Though a la carte service is available, the 7-course tasting menu was appealing, quintessential and--
though about $100--considerably less expensive than many prix fixe meals (I spent more at both Maido and Astrid y Gaston).

On my Facebook page, I posted pictures course by course, so I won't be so detailed here.

But while I don't think all of the relatively small courses were as imaginative as at Maido, or for the memories as at Picasso in Las Vegas, everything I ate was superb.

My waiter, Juan--who claimed to be a Bears fan when I told him I was from Chicago--was great, and the myriad, often richly-blended flavors I savored served to remind why I like to work high-end dining into palate when opportunity and budget allow.

I gave Passion by Martin Berasategui--the Spanish chef has restaurants around the world and was likely not on site--@@@@@ in this review on TripAdvisor.

So despite Chichen Itza being a tad disappointing once I had time to consider what I had and hadn't seen, I literally ended the day with a good taste in my mouth.

Back at my hotel, I was able to see some of the mainstage entertainment, but though some of the magic was impressive, I didn't last long.

The next day, Thursday, I didn't leave the hotel until it was time to go to the airport around 2:30pm.

This gave me a bit more time to lounge by the pools, go down to the beach and eat at Don Manolo--reminding me that there was much I'd enjoyed about the trip--but nothing that requires further detail here.

Unlike the outbound flight, which was direct from Chicago, my return included a connection in Dallas, which was a bit too tight, especially given DFW's confusing signage.

But like just about everything else regarding this trip, it was far better than it could've been, if not quite perfect.

This resort vacation came at a perfect time, and I'm entirely grateful I was able to go on it.

In a nutshell, to someone who didn't care deeply, I could comfortably say the trip "was great."

For in many ways it was. But for the few who've read this far, I'm happy to have given a fuller picture.

Cheers!